| More Tips from Iams, Purina, and Petco |
| Puppies: Basic Obedience A puppy can learn a great deal, even as early as 7 weeks of age, if learning is fun and presented in the form of gentle play. Motivational methods work best for the tender young puppy soul. Reward desired behaviors by offering toys, food and praise so the puppy wants to obey. Whenever possible, try to arrange the situation so he can't make a mistake. Never use physical punishment on a young puppy as you may damage him both mentally and physically. Most puppies, like young children, enjoy learning, but have short attention spans. The following exercises can be done several times a day. They take just a few minutes, but will make a tremendous difference in your puppy's attitude. To establish a positive rapport with your puppy and prevent many future problems, start training a few days after your puppy settles in. We can only offer very brief explanations here, and trainers have many variations on these concepts. If you run into problems, consult a professional trainer. A puppy can start more formal obedience training at about four to six months of age. Sit: Move a toy or piece of food (the motivator) from a position in front of the puppy to a point up over his head and say "Sit". The pup will probably raise his head to follow the motivator and in the process, lower his rear end to the floor. You may gently help the pup at first by tucking his bottom under with your free hand. When he sits, praise the pup exuberantly and give him the toy or treat as a reward. Down: Show the puppy a tantalizing piece of food or a toy to get his attention. Say "Down" and slowly lower the toy to the floor. If needed, help him down with very slight pressure on his shoulders. (Don't put pressure on his back, or you can hurt him.) Give him the toy when he lies down, even if just for a second. Reward profusely. Later you can extend the length of time he must stay down before you give him the toy. Stand: Starting with the puppy in the Down position, say "Stand" and raise a treat or toy forward and upward in front of the puppy. Gently help position him with your other hand if needed. Have him hold the stand position for a second or two, then release, reward and praise him exuberantly. Wait: Have the puppy sit. Say "Wait" and back away from the puppy, one or two steps. Praise the puppy for staying. After just a second or two, reward, praise, and release. Always reward the puppy when he's still waiting, not after he gets up, so he associates the reward with waiting and not the release. If the puppy gets up too soon, simply repeat the exercise. Gradually increase the time he waits. Strut (Heel): Get your puppy's attention with a delectable treat at about his head level on your left-hand side. Say "Strut" or "Heel" or "Let's go" (choose one and be consistent) and walk briskly forward. Let the puppy munch a bit as you walk. Go only a few steps at first, then extend the range. Release the pup and praise him. As the puppy progresses, lift the food a little higher, but do not reward the pup for jumping. Come: This game takes two people, and is a great way to get your puppy excited about coming to you. Person 1 holds the puppy back while Person 2 tantalizes him by waving a treat or toy in his face, just out of reach. Then Person 2 runs away, calling "Rover, Come!" in an excited tone of voice. Person 1 releases the pup, who comes running wildly after Person 2! Person 2 rewards the dog with lots of praise and gives Rover the toy or treat she was waving. When teaching a young pup to come to you, call him several times throughout the day around the house and yard, even if you don't want him to come for any particular reason. Each time he comes, praise and reward him. (You can keep some of his regular dry dog kibble in your pocket and give him one whenever he comes if you don't want to overload him with fancy fattening treats.) The puppy will think coming to you is terrific! If you don't have an assistant handy, try this game. Have the puppy on a loose long line or flexi-lead. Show him a treat or toy. Call his name and then say "Come!" in an energized tone of voice. If he comes to you, reward with a toy or a bit of food and excited praise. If he doesn't come right away, tug gently on the leash and move backwards, away from the puppy. If you run towards him, he may think you are playing a chase game and run away from you! As your puppy gets a little older and more independent, the long line or flexi-lead will guarantee that he will always come when you call. This is especially useful outside or at parks where he may find many new and interesting distractions. Always reward him for coming. Never scold or punish the dog when he comes to you. (If you must punish the dog for some bad behavior, just go get him.) Don't use the "Come" command outdoors unless your puppy is on a leash, so you can be sure he will obey. Soon he will realize that he must come every time you call and that coming is fun! Conclusion: Training your puppy is enjoyable and worthwhile. You will develop a rewarding bond with your puppy and an activity you can do together even after the dog is grown. An untrained dog can be a pest, a problem and a even a danger. A well-trained dog is a good friend and an asset to his family and community. Puppies: Teaching Good Manners "A dog should be a pleasure to all and a nuisance to none," says well-known dog trainer Barbara Woodhouse. Teach your puppy the following commands in addition to basic obedience, and he will be much easier to live with. Practice these commands a few times a day in very short play-training sessions. Give: To avoid unwanted aggression and guarding behavior later in life, train your dog to give you his prized possessions and even his food. The best way is to offer an exchange. Say "Give" and offer your dog a treat for his toy. The food offering will inspire most dogs to release the toy without struggle. Praise him heartily. Then give the toy back to him. Make it a fun game that he wins most of the time. Get it / Leave it (Don't Touch): Dogs who know the command "Leave it" will let things alone when asked. To make learning fun, play a game with your pup. Start the exercise with the dog sitting in front of you on a leash. With a handful of treats, offer him one at a time, saying, "Get it!" After two or three "Get its", offer him a treat, as usual, but this time say, "Leave it!" Of course he is going to go for it anyway because he doesn't know any better. When the puppy tries to grab the treat, give him a tiny bop on the nose with the same hand that offered him the treat, and repeat, "Leave it". As soon as the dog leaves the treat alone, praise him, saying, "Good Leave it!", then say, "OK. Get it!" and give it to him. Repeat the sequence four or five times in a row, saying "Get it" much more often than you say "Leave it." The puppy will think this is great fun and will probably catch on very quickly, learning to leave the treat alone when you say "Leave it". Don't Pull: Your cute little puppy may grow up to be a hundred pound powerhouse dragging you down the street if you don't train him not to pull on the leash. To prevent physical damage to the dog, avoid excessive jerking on a puppy's neck until he is at least four months old. Meanwhile, use a retractable leash, such as a Flexi-Leash(TM), so the pup can have some freedom, but meets resistance when he pulls. If he lunges, simply turn around and walk the other way. Many trainers are now using Halti(TM) Head Collars to train puppies not to pull. The Halti(TM) fits around the dog's head and attaches to the leash. With the Halti(TM), the owner diverts the dog's head gently to the side if the dog tries to pull forward. Dogs don't like to lunge in a direction they cannot see. The experience is unpleasant for the dog, but humane, involving no pain. Off: No matter what they say, most people do not like it when a dog jumps all over them. Jumping up can even be dangerous when a dog jumps on a small child. The simplest and safest way to teach a puppy not to jump up is to back up when you see the pup coming and say "Off!" Reward and praise the puppy once all its feet are on the ground. You can also tell the dog to "Sit" so he learns something positive to do when greeting strangers. When the puppy is older, more severe measures can be used if necessary. One warning: If you allow your dog to jump all over you, he may have trouble understanding why you don't allow him to jump all over everyone else. Try to be consistent! In Your Kennel: A dog's kennel should be his safe place, his den, his refuge. Your dog can learn to go willingly into his kennel on command. Tantalize your puppy with a treat or toy, then put it into the kennel and say "Kennel" or "Go to bed", or "In your Kennel" (choose one and be consistent). The dog will probably go inside. At first, don't close the door. Just praise the dog for going in. When he's used to going in, start closing the door, at first just for a few seconds. Give the puppy a little treat through the bars when he's inside with the door closed. Extend the time he spends inside the kennel gradually. Never let him out when he's crying as that only rewards crying. When you let the puppy out, don't make a big deal out of it. You don't want coming out to seem better than going in! Speak / Quiet: When a person yells at his dog for barking, the dog thinks the human is barking too, joining the fun. "Quiet" is a difficult concept for dogs. The most successful strategy we've found is to train the dog to bark on command before training the dog what "Quiet" means. Show the dog a treat, make a hand signal and say "Speak". You may have to bark a bit at your dog before he gets the idea, but eventually he will probably give you a bark or two. Praise and reward immediately and with great fervor. Try again until your puppy understands this entertaining game. Once the dog knows how to bark on command, get him barking and then suddenly say "Quiet" and place your fingers to your lips. This strange action will probably stun your dog into silence. Reward and praise excitedly! Repeat several times a day for a few weeks until your dog knows it dependably. Later, when you yell "Quiet", the dog will know what you are talking about. Summary: A dog with good manners is a pleasure to live with and to be around. Training your dog to behave in a socially acceptable way is fun. Your family and guests will thank you, and you will be proud of your pet. Wouldn't it be nice to have a dog who stops barking when you ask him to, who doesn't jump up on people, who doesn't pull you down the street and who will give you even his most prized possessions without a grumble? It's all up to you... Chewing: Puppies and Dogs Tips for Dealing with Puppy and Adult Dogs That Chew CHEWING: PUPPIES AND DOGS Chewing is a very normal behavior for puppies and dogs. They use their mouths for grasping food, gaining information about the environment, relieving boredom, and reducing tension. Chewing appears to be great fun. However, chewing could become a major problem when valued objects are damaged. WHY DO DOGS CHEW? When you couple strong jaws with the curiosity and high energy of an exploring puppy, the result is an incredible chewing machine! The speed at which puppies can wreak havoc in a house, and the extent of damage they can do, can really take you by surprise. There are a variety of reasons why a puppy might chew. SOME REASONS WHY DOGS AND PUPPIES CHEW Noises behind a wall, such as a high pitched heater motor or the scurrying footsteps of a mouse, might trigger investigative chewing. A delay in feeding time may send a hungry dog off chewing into cabinets as he searches for food. Food spilled on a piece of furniture can cause a puppy to tear into it with his teeth in hopes of finding something tasty to eat. Dogs make good pets because they have a very social nature and plenty of energy to share in activities with us. In return, we need to provide enough exercise, mental stimulation, and social interaction to avoid destructive behavior. UNDERSTANDING YOUR PUPPY'S WORLD Puppies usually pass time or break the boredom by using their mouths, which may result in destructive behavior. Household destruction occurs because puppies are simply entertaining themselves. Sometimes we unwittingly contribute to a puppy's problem by improper training. Puppies are unable to determine the difference between old shoes and new shoes, or between stuffed toys and the corner of a stuffed couch. Likewise, tug-of-war games can set the puppy up to fail. A puppy or dog entertained by tearing a towel is tempted to attack curtains fluttering in a breeze. WHAT ABOUT A SECOND PET? It is usually not the best course of action to get a second pet to help correct a chewing problem. In some cases, a second pet may serve to distract the destructive pet away from chewing. But it is just as likely that the problems could double, especially if the second pet is another puppy. A LITTLE GUIDANCE The first step in correcting a chewing problem is to guide your puppy's chewing toward acceptable chew toys. Choose a variety of good quality, safe products. When your puppy shows you what he likes, buy several more of the same type. Hollow rubber toys work well since biscuits can be wedged inside for your puppy to pry out. This gives him a job to do and helps keep his focus away from your possessions. Another way of keeping your puppy focused on putting his mouth on the toys is to teach him to play fetch. Never take proper chewing for granted. Take an active roll in rewarding desirable chewing with lots of encouragement and praise. Give your pet plenty of praise every time he chews on his toys. Occasionally give a small reward, such as Iams® Puppy Formula Biscuits for Puppies, to strongly reinforce the behavior. PROTECTING YOUR POSSESSIONS! Until you can trust your puppy, he must be under constant supervision or confined to a safe area. During times when he is with you, he might sneak off by himself to chew. Consider using a leash to keep him within eyesight. A crate, dog run, or safe room will keep him out of trouble when he cannot be watched. As your puppy is allowed more freedom, he can be taught to avoid forbidden objects if you make them taste bad. Choose an effective, commercial, bitter- or hot-tasting spray to safeguard objects. If he has the habit of chewing specific items, such as clothing, make sure that all clothing is out of reach except one or two items that are sprayed with a bad-tasting spray. Every day, move the items to new positions around the house. In four or five days change the type of item. This teaches the dog to leave your clothing alone because he associates them with a bad taste. "Booby traps" are successful since they punish your puppy during the act and do not require your presence. A stack of empty beverage cans set up to fall over when something moves can be effective in safeguarding certain objects. Motion- activated alarms are often effective in teaching a puppy to stay off furniture or out of plants. WHAT NOT TO DO Corrections and reprimands are rarely effective by themselves. Under no circumstances should your puppy be spanked, slapped, kicked, or physically punished in any way. There is a risk he will become hand shy or a fear-biter. Instead, offer a verbal reprimand followed by encouragement to chew on a proper chew toy. To be most effective, the reprimand must be given during or immediately after the misbehavior, and every time it occurs. Reprimands can backfire by either teaching the dog to be sneaky about chewing, or by teaching him not to chew anything, even toys, in your presence. This information was provided by Wayne Hunthausen, DVM, Director of Animal Behavior Consultations in the Kansas City metropolitan area. Puppies: Socialization/Adjustment Like children, puppies need a variety of positive experiences in order to become confident, well adjusted adults. As part of their upbringing, puppies should learn to get along with other dogs, children, and other people, and to accept the many strange sights, sounds, and experiences that are part of everyday life.) Stages of Development: Puppies pass through several developmental phases. Initial "dog socialization" begins in the litter. At seven to eight weeks, puppies start to become more independent and ready to explore their environment. This is a very good age to bring your new puppy home. Around eight to ten weeks, your puppy will probably enter a fear period. During this period, you will notice that your puppy sticks close to you and is easily frightened. Avoid loud noises or surprises during this period, and keep new experiences very non-threatening. Once the fear period passes, at around ten weeks of age, your puppy will enter the juvenile phase. He will be more inquisitive and more wide ranging in his explorations. This is a very good time to introduce new experiences! The juvenile period will last until your puppy becomes a young adult. Watch your puppy carefully, though; some pups go through a second fear period around their fourth or fifth month. When socializing your puppy, you must keep his health needs in mind. Until your dog's vaccinations are complete, he is at risk of catching Parvo, a widespread and deadly disease. You should be extremely careful not to put your puppy down in public places until his shots are complete. Consult your veterinarian for advice about what else may pose a health risk for your puppy. Getting Along With Other Dogs: Dogs have a language of their own. Using body posture, facial expressions, and vocalization, they communicate fear, anger, aggression, submission, playfulness, and more. A puppy who grows up among other dogs will learn canine language and be able to communicate effectively. A puppy raised in isolation may misinterpret cues from other dogs, or inadvertently send signals that may anger another animal. Also, like children, puppies need to learn appropriate social behavior. When puppies play, an overly enthusiastic nip results in a yelp from another puppy. Persistent jumping on "mom" may result in a growl or snap of rebuke. In these ways, puppies learn the limits of play behavior. A good way to give your puppy these important learning experiences is through "puppy socialization classes." Look under Dog Trainers in your phone book, or ask your local dog club or veterinarian for recommendations. You may also be able to get together with other new dog owners to form a puppy play group. During socialization, puppies should be allowed free play time. Puppies should be supervised to make sure puppy play doesn't become overly aggressive, especially if there's a big size difference among the dogs. Puppy socialization with other dogs begins in the litter, and should continue (if possible) throughout the puppy and juvenile growth stages. A well socialized puppy will probably mature into a dog who can be trusted to meet and play with other dogs. Note that socialization is even more important for dog-aggressive or dominant breeds. However, if you find your puppy becoming overly aggressive or overly afraid during play sessions, you should seek help from a professional dog trainer to make sure the behavior is corrected before it becomes a problem. Getting Along With Other Pets: For many dogs, interaction with other types of pets can be much more of a problem than dealing with other dogs. This is especially true with small animals that run away (behavior which can trigger "prey instincts" in the dog). It's best to not take a chance on allowing dogs of any breed to play with small animals such as hamsters or rabbits. Although many dogs have learned to get along with such pets, is it really worth the risk? Cats and larger pets are usually less at risk. If you have these pets in your home, the puppy should be introduced to them at an early age. Supervise the animals when they are together, and use praise or treats to reward your puppy for good behavior. (Don't forget to make the experience pleasant for the other pet as well.) Dogs of many breeds, when raised with cats or other pets, learn to accept them. However, for some breeds with strong hunting instincts, there may always be a risk. It's safest to choose your dog breed carefully if you know you will have other animals in the house. Getting Along With People: Since dogs must live in a human world, it's important for them to deal well with people. Early, positive exposure to lots of strangers, with praise or rewards for good behavior, will help your puppy grow up to become a well-behaved dog. Invite friends to your home to meet and play with your puppy. Ask adults to crouch down and avoid sudden movements when meeting your puppy... from the pup's point of view, a human is HUGE. If you don't have young children of your own, invite friends' or neighbors' children. (Be sure to instruct children in how to handle the puppy, and always supervise play!) Puppies who are not raised around children can develop aggressive behavior toward children when they grow older. Small children, who tend to run around and make high-pitched squealing noises, can trigger prey instincts in dogs who are not used to them. Some breeds don't do well with children because of the strong prey instinct; other breeds are very good with children. If you have small children in your home, this is a very important factor to consider when choosing a dog. As soon as your puppy's shots are complete, begin taking him to public places such as parks, where he can meet lots of friendly people. Also, make a point of introducing your dog to people of different ages and races, people in uniforms, and so on; dogs may become very wary when confronted with people who seem "unusual" in any way. It's important to remember that you are teaching your puppy to be comfortable with people, and to behave himself around them. Behavior that seems cute in a puppy, such as nipping and jumping, is no longer cute when the dog is an eighty pound adult! Whatever you don't want your dog to do as an adult, he should not be allowed to do as a puppy. Teach the puppy the behavior you want, and discourage the behavior you don't want. Gently but firmly correct unwanted behavior right from the start, and you'll have a well-behaved adult dog. Your well-socialized dog can still be a good watchdog. Your dog is smart enough to distinguish between people who you welcome into your home, and people who should not be there. Dealing With New Experiences: Everyday experiences can be very frightening for your new puppy. A pan dropped in the kitchen, a vacuum cleaner, or a ride in the car can become traumatic events that the dog will try to avoid forever after. To prevent this, introduce your dog to as many new experiences as you can think of. Use rewards and encouragement to make the experiences positive, so your dog doesn't develop fears. (Remember to keep new experiences very non-threatening, and avoid startling the puppy, during the fear period around eight to ten weeks.) For example, to accustom your puppy to a vacuum cleaner, first allow him to explore and sniff it without turning it on. Praise him or reward him as he explores. Then, when your puppy is a comfortable distance away, you may start up your vacuum cleaner, stand near it, and call your puppy. If he approaches, encourage him and praise him, or give him a reward. Gradually encourage the puppy to come closer to the vacuum. Repeat this experience several times, with lots of praise and rewards, and your puppy will soon have no fear of the vacuum. To get your puppy used to riding in a car, first get in the car with him and play with him, or give him a reward. On the next "outing," drive a few yards while someone holds your puppy and praises him. Work up to drives of a few minutes; keep them short so your puppy won't get sick. Afterwards, play with your puppy so he associates the car ride with a pleasant experience. Other experiences to work on with your puppy include getting into his crate or kennel, walking on a leash, walking on different surfaces (such as tile, carpet, gravel, sand, grass, and snow), climbing steps, and hearing the doorbell and telephone ring. You can use the same approach to accustom your puppy to experiences that might otherwise be ordeals for both of you! Try the reward approach when brushing your puppy, giving him a bath, and clipping his nails. You should also teach your puppy to let you handle his paws, his ears, his tail, and even open his mouth without a struggle. (Remember, start with very short sessions and use praise, play, or rewards to keep the experience fun.) This basic groundwork with your puppy will make life much easier when your vet needs to examine him! Keep new experiences upbeat and positive, and your dog will soon be a confident and happy companion. Recommended Readings: Neil, David H. and Rutherford, Clarice. How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With. Alpine Publications, Loveland, Colorado, 1981. The Monks of New Skete. The Art of Raising a Puppy. Little, Brown and Company, 1991. Tips for Housetraining Puppies Housetraining As with most things in life, there are hard ways and there are easy ways to get things done. Rubbing a puppy's nose in a mess is an inappropriate way to housetrain. Using ample amounts of supervision and positive reinforcement is the easy way. Starting Off On the Right Track The first course of action in housetraining is to promote the desired behavior. You need to: Designate an appropriate elimination area outdoors Frequently guide your dog there to do his business Heartily praise him when he goes By occasionally giving a food reward immediately after your dog finishes, you can encourage him to eliminate in the desired area. The odor left from previous visits to that area will quickly mark it as the place for the pup to do his business. Timing Is Important! A six- to eight-week old puppy should be taken outdoors every one to three hours. Older puppies can generally wait longer between outings. Most puppies should be taken out: After waking in the morning After naps After meals After playing or training After being left alone Immediately before being put to bed Eliminating On Command To avoid spending a lot of time waiting for your puppy to get the job done, you may want to teach him to eliminate on command. Each time he is in the act of eliminating, simply repeat a unique command, such as "hurry up" or "potty", in an upbeat tone of voice. After a few weeks of training, you will notice that when you say the command your puppy will begin pre-elimination sniffing, circling, and then eliminate shortly after you give the command. Be sure to praise him for his accomplishments. Feeding Schedules Most puppies will eliminate within an hour after eating. Once you take control of your puppy's feeding schedule, you will have some control over when he needs to eliminate. Schedule your puppy's dinner times so that you will be available to let him out after eating. Avoid giving your puppy a large meal just prior to confining him or he may have to eliminate when you are not around to take him out. Schedule feeding two to three times daily on a consistent schedule. Have food available for only 30 to 40 minutes, then remove it. The last feeding of the day should be completed several hours before he is confined for the night. By controlling the feeding schedule, exercise sessions, confinement periods, and trips outdoors to the elimination area, your puppy will quickly develop a reliable schedule for eliminating. Expect Some Mistakes Left on his own, the untrained puppy is very likely to make a mistake. Close supervision is a very important part of training. Do not consider your puppy housetrained until he has gone at least four consecutive weeks without eliminating in the house. For older dogs, this period should be even longer. Until then: Your puppy should constantly be within eyesight Baby gates can be helpful to control movement throughout the house and to aid supervision Keep them in the crate when unsupervised. When you are away from home, sleeping, or if you are just too busy to closely monitor your pet's activities, confine him to a small, safe area in the home. Nervous Wetting If your puppy squats and urinates when he greets you, he may have a problem called submissive urination. Dogs and puppies that urinate during greetings are very sensitive and should never be scolded when they do this, since punishment inevitably makes the problem worse. Most young puppies will grow out of this behavior if you are calm, quiet, and avoid reaching toward the head during greetings. Another helpful approach is to calmly ask your dog to sit for a very tasty treat each time someone greets him. Direct Him Away from Problem Areas Urine and fecal odor should be thoroughly removed to keep your dog from returning to areas of the home where he made a mess. Be sure to use a good commercial product manufactured specifically to clean up doggy odors. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for usage. If a carpeted area has been soaked with urine, be sure to saturate it with the clean up product and not merely spray the surface. Rooms in the home where your dog has had frequent mistakes should be closed off for several months. He should only be allowed to enter when accompanied by a family member. Don't Make Things Worse It is a rare dog or puppy that can be housetrained without making an occasional mess, so you need to be ready to handle the inevitable problems. Do not rely on harsh punishment to correct mistakes. This approach usually does not work, and may actually delay training. An appropriate correction consists of simply providing a moderate, startling distraction. You should only do this when you see your dog in the act of eliminating in the wrong place. A sharp noise, such as a loud "No" or a quick stomp on the floor, is all that is usually needed to stop the behavior. Just do not be too loud or your pet may learn to avoid eliminating in front of you, even outdoors. Practice Patience Do not continue to scold or correct your dog after he has stopped soiling. When he stops, quickly take him outdoors so that he will finish in the appropriate area and be praised. Never rub your dog's nose in a mess. There is absolutely no way this will help training, and may actually make him afraid of you. Success! The basic principles of housetraining are pretty simple, but a fair amount of patience is required. The most challenging part is always keeping an eye on your active dog or puppy. If you maintain control, take your dog outdoors frequently, and consistently praise the desirable behavior, soon you should have a house trained canine companion. Crate Training Training a puppy to be comfortable in a crate is a popular way to provide safe confinement during housetraining. The majority of puppies will rapidly accept crate confinement when you make the introduction fun. Since it is important to associate favorable things with the area where your puppy is confined, it is a good idea to play with him there, or simply spend some time reading or watching television nearby as he relaxes with a favorite chew toy. If he is only in the area when you leave, it becomes a social isolation area that he eventually may resist entering. A good time to start crate training is at dinner time. Feed your puppy his dinner, one piece at a time, by tossing pieces of kibble into the crate for him to chase and eat. This way, you can make a game out of training. When you pick up his toys, store them in the crate so he will enter on his own to play. You may even want to occasionally hide a biscuit in the crate as a nice surprise. You should not use the crate for periods that exceed the length of time the pet can actually control the urge to urinate or defecate. If you are gone for long periods each day, you will need to provide a larger confinement area. You may want to consider using an exercise pen or small room. Provide an area large enough so that if your puppy has to eliminate when you are gone, he can do it in a space that is separate from his sleeping area. A 15- to 30-square foot area is adequate for most puppies. If he chooses a specific place to eliminate, cover it with paper to make clean up easier. Pets and Weather Keeping Your Pet Safe in All Weather No Place Like Home No matter what the weather, the best way to ensure comfort and safety of your pet is to keep it where you are comfortable and safe – in your house. Consider offering your pet unlimited access to your house during weather extremes such as the hot, humid days of summer or the icy, cold days of winter. As pets spend more time indoors, other issues may arise. Many pets who aren’t used to being indoors may not know the rules and demonstrate normal, but destructive, behaviors such as chewing and clawing. Therefore, make sure you keep house plants and valuables out of reach. Pets with access to the outdoors during warm weather may also bring in unwanted guests – fleas. And a change in seasons usually brings with it a change in coat. Regular brushing can reduce the amount of pet hair on your rugs and furniture. Summer Summer heat puts extra stress on your pet’s body. Because of this, it’s best to keep your pet inside where there is access to shade, water and cool air whether from open windows or air conditioning. If your pet is outside all day, make sure he has a shady area, preferably on grass since pavement tends to heat up in warm weather. Check at different times to make sure the area is shaded all day. You may need to provide extra water in summer. Try larger water containers, or special devices that attach to an easy to reach faucet for unlimited access. Most veterinarians don’t recommend shaving dogs or cats, since the hair helps them insulate against heat. Heavy-coated breeds of dogs and cats are especially prone to heat illnesses, especially in hot, humid climates. Many heavy-coated dogs appreciate a wading pool to loll in on extra hot days. Other animals with an increased risk of overheating include senior pets, puppies and kittens, working pets, and flat-faced breeds (Pugs, Bulldogs, Pekes, Persians). If your dog or cat is used to running errands with you in your car, leave it home during hot summer days. Even with the windows cracked, your car can reach 130 degrees inside in less than 30 minutes. Don’t risk giving your pet heat stroke! Treating Overheating The best way to treat overheating is prevention. However, if you notice that your pet has abnormally rapid breathing, tremors, muscle weakness, vomiting, or fainting, your pet may have heat exhaustion. Wet your pet with cool – not cold – water, place in an area with a breeze, and transport your pet to the veterinarian immediately. Winter Cold weather also brings special care requirements for your pets. Again, the ideal place for your pets in cold weather is indoors where they have shelter from cold temperatures, drifting snow, and ice. Outdoor pets require shelter with insulation, fresh food and water that doesn’t freeze. Consider an electric bowl heater to keep water from freezing outdoors. If you take your pet outside in snowy or icy weather, be sure to check its paws for cuts or ice balls. After walking on pavement treated with salt or chemical snow removers, wipe your pet’s paws with a damp cloth. Treating Frostbite Cover chilled pets with blankets and allow them to regain normal body temperature gradually. Warm water baths – not hot baths – are another good way to gradually warm a chilled pet. Don’t use electric blankets or heating pads as they can burn your pet’s skin. If your pet is severely chilled or unresponsive, take him to your veterinarian immediately. Other Winter Concerns Antifreeze (containing ethylene glycol) poses a special danger to pets in winter. Both dogs and cats are attracted by the sweet taste, and mere teaspoonfuls can cause kidney damage or death. If you keep cars and pets in your garage, be sure your radiator does not leak. If you suspect your pet has ingested antifreeze, contact your veterinarian immediately. Treatment within two to four hours can save some pets. Carbon monoxide poisoning is another potential problem for pets kept in the garage with vehicles during winter months. Never start your car and let it warm up in the garage unless you remove your pet during this time. Taking Care of Your Puppy's Health Finding a Veterinarian Just like you, your new puppy needs high-quality health care on a regular basis. Ask a number of friends and your local humane society to recommend a veterinarian, then choose one with these factors in mind: Education and experience. Find out how long the veterinarian has been practicing and if he or she is a graduate of a well- regarded veterinary college. Specialty. In urban areas, it may be possible to find veterinarians who deal exclusively with the special problems of dogs and cats. Location. This factor should not override the areas of education, experience and specialty, but should nevertheless be taken into consideration. A drive across town during a medical emergency can be frustrating and delay needed treatment. Schedule a visit and interview Once you've narrowed down your choices, visit the veterinarian's office. Inspect the facility and talk to the veterinarian about your new puppy. If you like what you see and hear, arrange a time to bring your puppy in for an initial examination. We recommend a visit to the veterinarian within the first three days after you bring your puppy home to make sure he's in good health. The veterinarian may want to check the following things: Stool. A fecal exam will reveal the presence of internal parasites. Body. A thorough physical exam includes inspecting your dog's coat and feeling his body for abnormalities, as well as checking the eyes, ears, mouth and heart and examining the anus for signs of intestinal parasites. Once an exam is completed, your veterinarian can schedule immunizations and vaccinations and advise you on the importance of spaying and neutering. Puppy Nutrition for Small-Breeds The most rapid growth occurs in these first months of your puppy’s life. The immune system is developing. Bones are growing. Muscles are getting stronger. This rate of growth requires just the right mix of nutrients. To make sure your puppy is getting optimal nutrition to protect and maintain health and well-being, here are some key points to keep in mind. Feeding Your Puppy From the time your puppy’s weaned until 4 months of age, you should feed your puppy 2-3 meals a day based on the guidelines of the food label. After 4 months of age, your puppy should be fed twice a day on a regular schedule. Always have fresh water available. More Energy, More Protein Research shows that puppies need twice as much energy as adult dogs. Dramatic growth at this stage means your puppy requires an energy-rich, nutrient-dense, complete and balanced diet. Puppies also require more protein than adult dogs. High- quality, animal-based protein will help your puppy create new body tissue. One Size Does Not Fit All Not all puppies have the same nutritional needs. Small-breed puppies have higher metabolism rates per pound and reach their mature adult weight faster than larger-breed puppies. And small-breed puppies need higher levels of protein, fat, calcium and phosphorus to support growth and development of bones, muscles and other tissues. So giving your puppy a food specially formulated for his breed size is the easiest way to make sure he’s getting the right balance of nutrients for his growth rate. Small-breed puppies have another special feature: small mouths and stomachs. Make sure your puppy’s food has small kibble for easy chewing. A nutrient-dense formula will help make sure he’s getting a complete and balanced diet even though his stomach can only accommodate what seems like a small volume of food. Choosing Foods Aside from energy and protein, there are other important nutrients and ingredients vital to your puppy’s diet: vitamin-rich fish oils to support overall health essential vitamins and minerals to help support the immune system and help your puppy stay healthy during this critical stage of growth animal-based protein sources to help nourish growing muscles, vital organs and skin and coat a fiber source that will help keep your puppy’s sensitive digestive system healthy, so more nutrition stays in your puppy ideal levels of calcium and phosphorus to help your puppy develop strong teeth and bones These are important building blocks of nutrition. Look for them when you choose dry or canned dog food and when you select treats. The Switch to Adult Food A small-breed puppy reaches adult weight by 9-12 months—faster than large breeds that aren’t fully mature until 24 months of age. You can probably begin feeding adult dog food at 10 months. Your dog may not welcome the change at first, but don’ t worry. You can help ease the transition by gradually introducing the adult food. Try mixing 25% of the new food with 75% of his puppy food then gradually change the proportions over the next three weeks until he’s eating 100% adult food. Understanding Labels Five sections of a dog food label reveal what is in the food you're buying. Here's what you need to know to understand the information on a dog food label. The name of the food The name can tell you how much of an ingredient is in the food. Dog food names that have the animal protein source in the title, such as beef formula, indicate that at least 25 percent of the diet is indeed the named ingredient. Names that contain the word with (such as with chunky chicken) or flavor (such as turkey flavor) can contain as little as 3 percent of that ingredient. The ingredient panel This section on the label lists all the ingredients that make up the product. The ingredients must be listed in descending order according to weight before cooking. The first ingredient in dry food should be a source of high-quality animal-based protein—chicken or lamb for example. Dogs thrive on animal proteins, but may not do as well on vegetable proteins such as soybean meal. Manufacturers who use large amounts of vegetable proteins may be saving money at the expense of a dog's overall well-being. Other ingredients to avoid are artificial colors and flavors, which offer no nutritional benefits. The guaranteed analysis Near the ingredient panel should be a chart of percentages called the "guaranteed analysis." These figures reveal the basic nutrient make-up of the dog food's formula, including protein content. The minimum percentages of protein and fat and the maximum percentages of fiber and moisture (water) should be listed. Nutritional adequacy statement If the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) statement says "animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures," the food was actually fed to dogs at that same life stage and found to be adequate. If the AAFCO statement refers to "meeting nutrient profiles," the dog food may not have been tested with dogs. Instead, the food was analyzed in a laboratory and the results were compared to recognized industry standards. The manufacturer's name and address This information must be on the label by law. A toll-free number may also be listed. Manufacturers, such as The Iams Company, who list a phone number, generally have a high-quality product and welcome consumer calls and questions. Beware of products that read packed for or distributed by. These foods aren't made by the store whose name may be on the front label, but are from a manufacturer whose quality and consistency controls may not be monitored When Is It an Emergency? Quiz In an emergency situation, time is of the essence. But can you recognize the most common canine health crises? Following are some common emergency scenarios. Circle those you think are most dangerous, then check your answers. Choose all answers you think are correct; more than one may apply. 1. Your dog ate the pill you dropped. Which drugs could cause problems? a. birth-control pills b. tranquilizers c. ibuprofen (Advil/Motrin) d. acetaminophen (Tylenol) Correct answer: None or all. A single dose of any of these drugs is unlikely to cause problems for most dogs, but multiple doses may be harmful. Seek veterinary care if your dog consumes multiple doses. 2. A car hit your dog. He should be examined by a veterinarian if: a. he can walk, but with a limp b. you see no injuries c. he seemed fine, but now is lethargic d. he's panting Correct answers: All. Internal injuries aren't immediately obvious, and even a seemingly unhurt dog should be examined. Breathing difficulties are especially critical. (Many injuries can be avoided by keeping your dog on a leash. Click here to learn tips on how to leash train your dog.) 3. Your dog is bleeding. Seek emergency help if: a. it's a deep cut, still oozing after a half-hour b. you over-clipped a toenail; your dog is yelping c. his gums are pale d. you applied pressure and the bleeding stopped Correct answers: a and c. Pale gums can indicate excessive blood loss. Any injury that bleeds for more than five minutes requires immediate medical attention. If a dog loses too much blood too soon, the results can be fatal. 4. Your dog was playing in the backyard and injured himself trying to jump a fence. It is serious if: a. he won't walk on one leg now b. he's walking with a limp c. he limped briefly, then the limp disappeared d. one leg is now at a funny angle Correct answers: a and d. A non-weight-bearing or abnormally positioned limb could be fractured or dislocated, and needs immediate care. A weight- bearing, but painful limb, may be able to wait until morning as long as your dog is not whining or showing other obvious signs of pain, such as not wanting to perform regular tasks like going outside to take care of business. (Your backyard may be your pet’s playground, but in extreme weather, even this familiar territory can be dangerous to your pet. Click here to learn important information on the dangers posed by extreme hot and cold weather.) 5. Uncle Ned gave your 10-pound dog some chocolate. It is only dangerous if it was: a. 1 ounce of milk chocolate b. 2 ounce of dark chocolate c. three chocolate-covered almonds d. four minutes after you told Uncle Ned not to feed your dog anything Correct answer: b. The rule: Darker equals more dangerous. For a 10-pound dog, it takes 10 ounces of milk chocolate, but only 1 ounce of baking chocolate to be toxic. Some veterinarians recommend inducing vomiting immediately if your dog ingests chocolate. Ask your veterinarian what to give your dog in this situation, and how much. (Many table foods, not just chocolate, can be dangerous to your pet. Click here to learn how to teach your dog not to beg for table scraps.) 6. You're playing catch with your dog. You should panic if: a. the baseball hit his head; he yelped but continued playing b. the rubber ball is stuck in the back of his mouth c. he catches better than you Correct answer: b. Soft rubber balls are the perfect size to lodge in the upper airway of medium-large dogs. An obstructed airway is a true critical emergency; fortunately, it's highly uncommon. Dogs normally expel foreign bodies without help. Finally, post the telephone numbers for your regular veterinarian and your local after-hours emergency veterinary hospital nearby. A professional will be able to identify whether something is a true emergency or not. From the Purina Company Clicker Training Your Puppy All puppies need to be trained. Regardless whether you keep a puppy to show or train for fieldwork or place him in a companion home or with another canine enthusiast, a puppy needs to learn right from wrong. “One of the most important aspects of getting off to a good start with a new puppy is training,” says Keith Benson, president of Triple Crown Dog Academy in Hutto, Texas, near Austin. “Puppies are extremely impressionable, especially at 8 to 20 weeks of age, a time commonly referred to as the imprinting stage.” Imprinting Stage During this time good habits can be developed and bad ones avoided through positive, motivational training. One of the best ways to have fun training a puppy and see fast results is through clicker training, Benson says. Clicker training uses a combination of scientific principles of classical conditioning from Ivan Pavlov and operant conditioning from B.F. Skinner. “Pavlov’s dogs salivated at the sound of a bell, and Skinner trained pigeons to perform series of movements in order to receive their food reward,” he says. “Clicker training teaches your dog to associate an auditory signal, like the clicker, with a pleasurable reward, like food. Through repetition, a dog learns that the clicker means that what he did at that moment was correct and a reward is to come.” So, what is clicker training and how does it work? The clicker is an effective tool because the sound is clear and consistent, and it helps bridge the time between when you mark the correct behavior and when the reward is given, Benson says. Because it is a reward-based method, the clicker can help a puppy become an active learner. Timing and Motivation Other aspects essential to training a puppy are timing and motivation. “Timing is important because dogs live in the present, and there is only a second for a puppy to associate cause with effect,” Benson says. “This means your reward for a job well done must be immediate for a puppy to make an accurate association with his action and the reward. Any lag in communication can result in confusion for a puppy or inadvertently teach him something unexpected. The clicker can actually help you mark the exact moment a puppy performs the correct behavior without a lag in communication time.” “Motivation is finding something very appealing to a puppy for which he desires to work. Oftentimes food rewards are used in training because dogs have an inborn willingness to work for food, but you can also use praise, petting or a special toy reserved just for training sessions,” he says. Remember that being patient and having fun are especially important when training a puppy, Benson says. “Training sessions should be kept short — about 15 minutes per session — and upbeat to prevent a puppy from getting bored. Praise and reward a puppy often when he performs an exercise well to help keep him motivated in your sessions.” You should choose quiet locations free from distraction in which to hold training sessions so a puppy can focus his full attention on you, Benson says. “Don’t push too hard and only move onto more difficult exercise when you feel a puppy is ready. Along with basic obedience exercises, like sit, down and walking on a loose leash, you can also begin teaching a puppy how you would like him to behave as an adult. These exercises can include sitting to greet people instead of jumping up on them, staying off the furniture, and anything else that is important.” Puppy Group Classes Participating in group classes led by a professional trainer is a great way to teach a puppy essential obedience exercises, Benson says. “One benefit of group classes is having the input of a trainer to guide you in the right direction for training your puppy, as well as help with any problems or questions you may have.” A puppy will also benefit by being able to socialize with other dogs and people, as well as learning to pay attention to you in an environment with distractions, he says. “Look for a group class in your area geared toward the specific training needs of puppies that offers positive motivation techniques like clicker training.” “The first few months with a new puppy create a great opportunity to build the foundation of a lasting bond with a dog,” Benson says. “The training you do now will help guide a puppy in the direction of a well-mannered canine companion for life.” Triple Crown Dog Academy located in Hutto, Texas, outside Austin, has offered training programs for dog trainers and dogs, including puppy group classes, since 1998. From Puppy Hood On…a Guide to Health Care for Your Dog Health Safeguards Vaccinations. Safeguarding a dog's health against a number of diseases begins at the time of weaning. During the first one to three days of its nursing period, a puppy receives antibodies in its mother's milk called colostrum. When the puppy is six to eight weeks of age, this immunity begins to disappear. Consequently at eight to 20 weeks of age, a puppy becomes susceptible to a number of diseases. At this time its immune system should be stimulated to provide its own antibodies. This is why vaccination programs are initiated shortly after weaning. A vaccination program should be worked out by your veterinarian. You will also want to discuss a timetable for booster shots to provide a lifetime of protection for your dog. Vaccinations to help safeguard a puppy's health are available for the following common and serious diseases: Rabies is a disease of the central nervous system, usually transmitted through the bite of a rabid animal. All warmblooded animals are susceptible to rabies and some may serve as natural reservoirs of the virus. Among these are the skunk, fox, raccoon and bats. Bats are also found in urban areas. On rare occasions the disease may be transmitted by the contact of virus-laden saliva with broken skin. Airborne infections may also occur in confined areas such as bat caves. Early symptoms may include fever, listlessness or altered behavior. Late in the course of the disease, paralysis, muscle tremors, convulsion and death follow. Since rabies is usually fatal and can be transmitted to man, most states have laws requiring dogs to be vaccinated for rabies. The first rabies vaccination will protect your puppy for one year. Your veterinarian will then work out a timetable for booster shots. You will receive a rabies certificate and a rabies tag to document the vaccination. Keep this certificate in a safe place in case your puppy is exposed to rabies or is suspected of biting someone. Parvovirus and Coronavirus can affect dogs of all ages, but they are particularly devastating to puppies. Immediate treatment by a veterinarian for these diseases is essential. Parvovirus is a common and deadly viral infection. Puppies under five months of age, older dogs and dogs stressed by other medical and environmental problems are most severely affected, but death can occur in any age group. Fever, vomiting, depression, severe diarrhea and dehydration can accompany the infection. In some instances, death can occur rapidly, at times, in a matter of hours. In other cases, the course can be severe, but more protracted. A dog exhibiting any of the signs of parvovirus should be examined by a veterinarian immediately. Fast action can increase a dog's chances for survival and help prevent permanent damage to its intestines. Puppies who manage to survive may have permanently damaged hearts. As a result, affected puppies may die weeks or even months after the infection has passed. Important Parvovirus Warning Because canine parvovirus can survive many weeks on contaminated surfaces, great caution should be taken in placing puppies where parvovirus has oc-curred. It is advisable to introduce only puppies who have been vaccinated and then only after thor-ough disinfection of the premises. Household bleach is an effective disinfectant. Coronavirus is a highly contagious infection of the gastrointes-tinal tract. It is less severe than parvovirus. Symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, fever and dehydration. These viruses are transmitted from dog to dog via contact with infected feces, or the viruses can be carried by shoes, clothing, carriers, food and water bowls. Follow your veterinarian's advice on a vaccination program for these diseases. Canine distemper is a virus that affects the central nervous system. Early warning signs include fever, lack of appetite, mild drainage from the eyes, lethargy or depression. They may be followed by a severe discharge from the eyes and nose, severe diarrhea, pneumonia or convulsions. The distemper virus can be carried from one dog to another or transmitted though contact from a contaminated environment. Generally distemper virus spreads as an airborne infection. Vaccination is the only effective control. Hepatitis is a virus that affects the liver. It is most severe with puppies, but dogs of all ages are susceptible. Early signs of hepatitis are similar to those of distemper: fever, loss of appetite, depression, vomiting and diarrhea. Other symptoms include a discharge from the eyes or nose, uncontrolled bleeding, skin bruises or pain when the abdomen is pressed. A vaccination program planned by your veterinarian will control this disease. Tracheobronchitis, popularly referred to as "kennel cough", primarily affects dogs living in close proximity, such as in a kennel or shelter. It is highly contagious, attacks the respiratory system, causes mild or no fever, nasal discharge and a dry, hack ing cough. In severe form, kennel cough can cause a loss of appetite, lethargy and a moist, persistent cough together with nose and eye discharges. It can be treated with appropriate antibiotics. Numerous organisms have been implicated as causes. It is pos-sible for your veterinarian to vaccinate for three of the common components of this cough. The three vaccines are parainfluenza, canine bordetella, and adenovirus-2. Leptospirosis is an acute infectious disease that spreads through contact with the saliva, urine or nasal secretions of infected animals. The early symptoms include fever, muscle pain, dehy-dration, shock, loss of appetite and vomiting. Within a day or two of the onset of the first symptoms, the temperature will drop sharply, breathing will be labored and stiffness, particularly in the hind legs, may be observed. For control, a vaccination program must be followed. Internal Parasites Be aware of a hidden health threat. Most internal parasites, commonly called worms, live in the dog's intes-tines where they feed and reproduce. All puppies should be examined by a veterinarian for internal parasites. Your veterinarian can detect the presence of most worms by examining your dog's feces. Some parasites, such as hookworms and roundworms, can be transmitted from the mother to her puppies before birth or during nursing. Canine heartworm disease is among the most serious health hazards affecting dogs of all ages. Mosquitoes serve as an intermediate host to carry the heartworm larvae from infected to uninfected dogs. The larvae invade a dog's body through a mosquito bite and work their way to a dog's heart and nearby blood vessels. At first, an affected dog shows few, if any signs of infection. Over a period of time, an affected dog will display less and less tolerance for play and exercise. More obvious signs are a dry, chronic cough, shortness of breath, weakness, nervousness, listlessness, and weight loss. Without treatment, death is the eventual result. Heartworm is easy to prevent. In areas where dogs are exposed to mosquitoes year-round, preventive medicine must be given year-round, on a daily or monthly basis, depending on the medication chosen. If the mosquito problem is seasonal, medication should begin at the start of the mosquito season and continue well after the season. Even if the mosquito problem is seasonal, veterinarians may recommend year-round treatment. Spraying for mosquito control, draining mosquito breeding grounds, avoiding mosquito-infested areas and keeping dogs screened from mosquitoes at night will also help reduce the threat of heartworm. Hookworms are among the most dangerous of all the intestinal parasites, especially in puppies who can be infected from their mother. Hookworms attach themselves to the intestinal wall of an infected dog and suck blood, causing severe anemia which sometimes can be fatal. Puppies with heavy hookworm infec-tions can die from blood loss before they are three weeks of age. Infected puppies may appear healthy the first week of life, but deteriorate rapidly the second and third week. They exhibit pale gums and pass very dark feces, indicative of partially digested blood. Adult dogs with mild infections show no symptoms, but those with severe hookworm infection may exhibit anemia, dehydration, weakness and listlessness. Feces are dark red or black in color because of the presence of blood. Diarrhea may also be present. Regular fecal examinations for the parasite by your veterinarian minimizes the risk of infection. Roundworms are probably the most common parasite among young dogs. Puppies are infected by way of the placenta before birth. After birth, puppies can become infected by larvae in the mother's milk. In the small intestine, roundworms compete with the puppy for nutrients, resulting in stunted growth and poor health. Roundworms often make a puppy look "potbellied." Other signs include diarrhea, poor haircoat, listlessness and poor growth. Microscopic examination of fecal matter is needed to diagnose roundworms as well as hookworms. Your veterinarian can prescribe appropriate medication and a schedule to follow to prevent reinfection. Whipworm infection can become severe before any noticeable symptoms appear. As the infection progresses, symptoms in- clude diarrhea, abdominal pain, nervousness, weight loss and anemia. Usually these problems are seen in puppies over three months of age. Untreated severe whipworms may occasionally be fatal. Whipworms pass directly from one dog to another when a dog consumes food, feces or water contaminated with infective eggs. Your veterinarian can diagnose whipworm infection by microscopic examination of fecal matter and can prescribe appropriate medication. Tapeworms can be transmitted by fleas, rodents or rabbits which may be eaten by dogs. A mild tapeworm infection may go unnoticed. Signs of a more severe tapeworm infection include abdominal discomfort, lethargy and diarrhea alternating with constipation. There are numerous species of tapeworm. Different tapeworm species require different medications. Consequently, a veterinarian's diagnosis and instructions for administering any wormer are important. Giardia is one of the most common of the protozoa that can infect dogs. It can be acquired by direct contact with fecal matter containing the parasite as well as from parasite-contaminated food and water. Symptoms, which can be intermittent or con-tinuous, include foul-smelling feces, which may contain mucus, loss of appetite and weight loss. Routine methods of examination usually do not reveal the presence of giardia. Your veterinarian can perform fecal examinations designed to reveal this type of parasites. Once diagnosed, specific treatment is available. Coccidia are common parasites of dogs, especially puppies. Eggs passed in the feces of the infected dogs become infective to other dogs within one to several days. The most common symptoms include diarrhea, abdominal pain, dehydration, weight and appetite loss. However, coccidia may be present with no symptoms. Veterinary diagnosis is made by examining the feces using the same methods as for the detection of hookworms and round- worms. Several medicines are reported to help control coccidia, but the general health of the dog and the function of its immune system appear to be important. More About Internal Parasites Usually signs of internal parasites are slow and subtle and may be overlooked by the dog owner or confused with other conditions. General signs of parasitic infection include weakness, poor appearance, emaciation, distended abdomen ("potbelly"), rough haircoat and paleness of membranes of the mouth and, in some cases, frequent digestive upsets and diarrhea. Affected dogs may eat well and their temperature remains normal, but there is a loss of energy. Consult your veterinarian as to the timing and methods of fecal examination and treat affected dogs precisely as directed. Be aware that products that work well on dogs may be hazardous to cats and other animals. Some products are hazardous when improperly combined. Important preventive measures are proper nutrition achieved through feeding a nutritionally complete and balanced dog food and maintaining strict sanitary conditions in the dog's environment. External Parasites Combatting Discomfort and Disease. Dogs are subject to attack by a number of external parasites who live on a dog's skin. They not only cause irritation, but sometimes carry diseases. As you groom your dog, examine its haircoat for any evidence of parasites. Fleas are tiny insects that feed on the blood of animals and create mild to severe discomfort. They cause chronic scratching and, if swallowed by a dog, can also transmit tapeworms. Flea bite allergy is the most common allergy affecting dogs. It occurs when a dog is exposed to flea saliva as the flea bites. The saliva acts as an allergen and can cause intense itching. Hair loss and skin infections are other signs of flea allergy. Controlling fleas is essential in managing this type of allergy. Fleas can hatch in a dog's bedding, carpets, furniture and out-door areas. To control fleas, the dog's environment as well as the dog must be treated. Keeping the environment flea-free involves dealing with all stages of the flea life cycle. Fleas live on host animals and move readily from dog to dog, man to man, or from man to dog or other animals. Eggs are laid loose in the dog's haircoat and usually fall off soon afterwards and are generally hatched in four to seven days. Animals passing through an infested area pick up these newly hatched and developing fleas. Special attention should be paid to the dog's sleeping area. It should be kept clean and the bedding should be washed frequently. In the house, thoroughly vacuum all carpets and crevices, under cushions, rugs and in the corners of upholstered furniture. Discard the vacuum bag because it may harbor fleas. Some flea control in the yard is possible through spraying. Thorough cleaning and vacuuming help, but a professional exterminator may be needed to control heavy infestations. Multiple treatments may be needed to needed to remove fleas from the household environment. Fleas are diagnosed by finding either the parasites themselves or black specks called "flea dirt" (flea excrement) on the dog's haircoat. Many preparations are available to aid in flea control. A once-a- month tablet for flea control is available through veterinarians. This tablet kills the flea eggs deposited on a dog. Adult fleas can still bite the dog and deposit eggs. Dogs can get an allergic reaction from the flea bites as well as tapeworms if a flea is ingested. Products to control fleas in the house and yard are also needed in a complete flea control program, especially in the case of moderate to severe infestations. Be certain the label on any product you use states the product is safe for dogs and follow label directions. Your veterinarian can also provide advice about products that will be effective in your particular situation. Ticks are bloodsucking parasites and one of the most difficult to control. Because ticks suck many times their weight in blood, a heavy infestation on a dog can cause moderate to severe anemia. This condition can result in the death of puppies. The bites also cause irritation to the skin and secondary infection of tick bites is common. The two most common kinds of ticks infecting dogs are the brown dog tick and the American dog tick. The brown dog tick is known to carry a parasite of the red blood cells as well as other infectious diseases. The American dog tick carries a number of diseases including Rocky Mountain spotted fever and tularemia. Lyme disease is an infectious disease transmitted by the deer tick. It is being diagnosed with increasing frequency in the United States. After walking your dog in a wooded area or field, always check for ticks. If you remove individual ticks, extract them manually and be certain that the mouthpiece does not remain in the puppy's skin. Remove the entire head and its mouth parts with tweezers or by the fingers protected with a paper towel, tissue or rubber gloves. Pull upward with a steady, even pressure. Do not twist. Wash hands thoroughly and disinfect the bite site. As with fleas, proper treatment of the premises is essential to control ticks. Use a pesticide designated for ticks according to label directions. Remove your dog from any area to be treated. Indoors spray its sleeping area and along baseboards, door frames and other cracks and crevices. Repeat the treatment as needed. In tick-infested areas, keep grass and weeds cut short. Spray pesticides according to label directions. Shrubbery should be sprayed up to a height of two to three feet. Lice are generally not common on healthy dogs. Serious infection usually occurs on poorly nourished and poorly managed dogs. Lice are classified by their feeding habits as either biting or sucking. Sucking lice injure their host by drawing blood which can result in anemia. This blood loss is especially dangerous to puppies. The bites may be very irritating to the dog's skin, leading to self-injury. Biting lice feed by chewing on dry skin, scales and scabs. This can cause skin irritations, often preventing sleep and may also cause diarrhea and appetite loss. Infected dogs should be isolated and treated with any of a number of commercial products in the form of dips, sprays or shampoos. Mange is a general term for parasitic diseases caused by any of several microscopic mites. A veterinarian should diagnose and treat a mange infestation as soon as possible. Demodectic, or red mange, is seen primarily in young dogs and does not appear to be transmitted to other dogs or humans. However, young puppies may acquire the parasite from their mother while they are nursing. It is usually a mild, localized infection, found in small patches around the eyes and on the face, neck and limbs. Symptoms include hair loss, mild redness and some scaling of the skin. Serious secondary infection may result and treatment can be difficult. Sarcoptic mange, or scabies, is highly contagious and can be transmitted to humans as well as other dogs. The mites burrow into the skin, causing irritation which leads to intense itching by the infected dog. The typical pattern of distribution includes the ears, chest, limbs and abdomen. Serious self-injury from scratching and biting and secondary infections are likely to occur if the infection is not treated. Ear mites cause a thick, dark reddish-brown material to exude from the ears of the dogs. A foul odor to the external ear may also be present. Affected dogs make shake their heads and scratch around their ears, causing considerable self-injury. Because ear mites can be transmitted by direct contact, all animals in contact with the infected animal should be treated. For all mite infections, your veterinarian can provide diagnosis and effective treatment. Important Pesticide Precautions · When using pesticides the importance of reading the product information on the label cannot be overemphasized. It is equally critical to follow all instructions on the label exactly. · Remove all animals from the area to be treated. · Do not reapply more often than recommended to avoid overexposure to the pesticide. .Protect yourself by wearing rubber gloves and protective clothing. · Watch for allergic reactions by animals and people. · Store pesticides in their original or clearly labeled containers where they are out of the reach of children and pets. · Do not allow dogs and other animals into the treated area until it is thoroughly dry. Fungal Infection Despite Its Name, Ringworm Is Not A Worm. It is a highly contagious fungus infection of the skin that can be transmitted to your dog by other infected animals, by humans or by contacts with the soil. Puppies and young dogs as well as children are most susceptible. Ringworm lesion is a rapidly spreading, circular, hairless, scaly area edged in red. It may be accompanied by mild itching. Because ringworm can be transmitted to other animals and humans, the infected dog must be isolated and treated by a veterinarian. The dog's bedding should be destroyed. Carpets and upholstered furniture must be thoroughly vacuumed and the vacuum bag discarded. Spaying and Neutering Be A Responsible Dog Owner. Lack of information or misinformation about neutering and spaying are a primary cause of millions of puppies and dogs being euthanized or abandoned each year. Some dog owners are fearful that the procedure might be painful or cruel or that it will result in a personality change. Separating myth from reality should reassure dog owners that neutering/spaying not only helps solve the problem of unwanted dogs but also contributes to their health and well-being. Myth: Neutering/spaying changes a dog's personality. Reality: While this procedure may decrease aggressiveness, the dog's genetic makeup and the attention and training it receives are factors that shape its personality. Neutering is usually performed just as a dog is approaching puberty. The changes in a dog's playfulness and sleeping habits that normally develop at puberty are sometimes attributed to this procedure. Myth: Females have a sweeter, gentler personality if allowed to have one litter before being spayed. Reality: No evidence from behavioral research or from clinical observations supports this belief. Some animal behaviorists suggest that this is "the placebo effect." The owner expects that breeding will bring about a behavior change and this leads to the assumption that behavior has improved. Myth: Neutered/spayed pets become obese. Reality: Neutering/spaying are often associated with obesity because reduced activity and metabolic changes may result. This problem can generally be avoided by close monitoring of the dog's diet (eliminating table scraps and, if necessary, reducing the amount of dog food offered). In addition to diet management, regular exercise and play periods should also help prevent obesity. As in any surgery, neutering or spaying may have possible complications which you can discuss with your veterinarian. However, the benefits of neutering and spaying outweigh most complications. Health Benefits of Neutering and Spaying Spaying a female before her first heat cycle protects against mammary tumors. However, if this surgery is done late in her life it does not provide this benefit. Early spaying also helps prevent the development or progression of several reproductive tract diseases. Females come into heat at fairly regular intervals. With each heat cycle may come the unwelcome presence of unaltered male dogs. Spaying prevents this annoying problem. Solid medical evidence supports the advantages of neutering the male dog. The risk for testicular cancer as well as other testicular diseases is eliminated. The desire to roam and aggression toward other dogs usually diminish. A neutered male usually becomes a contented stay-at-home companion. Consequently, the threat of his wandering into the path of an automobile or being killed or injured in fights with other dogs is reduced. Urine marking is also reduced. Dental Care Don't Neglect the Teeth. The kind of dental care a dog receives over the years has a great impact on its health and longevity. Dogs can develop many of the same dental problems experienced by people. Dog owners are realizing that regular dental care helps promote good health in dogs. Although dogs usually do not need the extensive dental treatments many people require, they do need dental care on a regular basis, especially as they grow older. Dogs have 28 deciduous (temporary) teeth and 42 permanent teeth. Deciduous teeth (sometimes described as "milk teeth") begin to appear when a puppy is about four weeks of age. Shedding of deciduous teeth in favor of permanent teeth is a gradual process occurring between 14 and 30 weeks of age. During the time puppies are losing their teeth, they may eat slightly less and may tend to chew more. Hard rubber or rawhide toys made especially for dogs are a good investment to help prevent household damage during this time. Occasionally a puppy retains some deciduous teeth after the permanent teeth have appeared. This retention may result in damage to the soft tissues of the mouth and may even accelerate wear of permanent teeth. A veterinarian should be consulted to determine whether or not removal is necessary. The most common dental problems dogs experience result from plaque and calculus buildup. Food material, bacteria and saliva may accumulate and adhere to the tooth surface, forming a soft plaque. If plaque buildup continues, solutions of chalk- like materials form a hardened dental calculus on the tooth surface. Calculus is seen more frequently in older pets fed large quantities of soft foods. If left unchecked, plaque and calculus buildup can eventually cause inflammation of both the gums (gingivitis) and the membrane lining of the tooth socket (periodontitis). Without proper treatment, the teeth may become infected and fall out. The infection resulting from these conditions may spread to other parts of the body such as the kidneys or heart valves. Unfortunately, signs of dental problems are often subtle and may go undetected for months or even years. Consequently, they are far advanced before being discovered. Unpleasant breath and salivation are signs of a dental problem. Regular dental examinations by a veterinarian are recommended. A good opportunity for this dental checkup is during the dog's yearly physical examination when vaccinations are given. Regular cleaning and scaling under anesthesia, done by a veterinarian, aids in preventing or minimizing dental problems. Dry crunchy foods such as Purina ® Puppy Chow ® brand puppy food and Purina ® Dog Chow ® brand dog food can be helpful in keeping teeth cleaner. The dog's chewing action while eating a dry food acts like a toothbrush as particles scrape against the teeth to help remove plaque. However, there is no substitute for regular dental care. If possible, accustom a young puppy to having its teeth cleaned on a regular basis at home. Use a mixture of baking soda with a little water added to form a paste or a toothpaste formulated specifically for dogs. Apply with a soft toothbrush or a piece of gauze wrapped around the finger. Do not use toothpaste formulated for humans because dogs swallow, rather than spit out such a preparation, which may cause a digestive upset. A Question About Age How does a dog's years of age compare to those of people? No single rule is universally accepted. One rule of thumb suggests that the dog's first year is roughly equivalent to 14 human years. After that, each year is approximately equivalent to five years for people. Like people, dogs mature at different rates. Several factors influence a dog's longevity: · The dog's genetic makeup. · A lifetime of complete and balanced nutrition appropriate for a dog's lifestage. · Regular veterinary care. · Proper daily care including clean, comfortable, draft-free housing. Evaluating Your Dog's Health Your Dog Cannot Tell You How It Feels. Consequently, it can become quite ill before the signs of illness become apparent. Unless your dog is unconscious, bleeding or otherwise visibly demonstrating its distress, how can you know if your dog is ill? Know your dog. Be aware of its usual behavior and appearance to provide a basis for evaluating its health on a day-to-day basis. Contentment and alertness are two signs of a healthy dog. Contented dogs usually stretch on rising and look relaxed and unworried when resting. Healthy dogs are alert and respond to the activity around them. Observe your dog for any signs of illness which include: Unusual behavior: · Loss of appetite - it is normal for a dog to go "off feed" for a day or two, but if loss of appetite persists, consult your veterinarian · Lack of interest in what is going on · Hiding in dark places · Persistent coughing · Scratching or chewing at feet, skin or haircoat Eyes: · Discharge from the eyes and nose · Red, inflamed or cloudy eyes Ears:: · Persistent head shaking, scratching ears · Strong odor, tenderness and swelling around the ears Mouth: · Unpleasant breath odor and /or swollen gums Poor Appearance: · Haircoat with a harsh feel or dull texture · Dull and flaky skin · Potbelly or thinness Other Warning Signs: · Blood in the urine · Mucus or blood visible in the stools · Repeated vomiting over several days · Unusual lumps under the skin An Important Caution Obesity is the number one nutritional disorder among dogs. Studies suggest that over 30 percent of the dogs presented to veterinary clinics are overweight. The same health problems obesity causes for humans can also affect overweight pets. Cardiovascular and respiratory systems and other major organs can adversely be affected. A veterinarian may find it difficult to assess a dog's physical condition because excess body weight can mask symptoms or aggravate existing abnormalities. Dogs weighing 20 percent or more over ideal body weight may be obese. Your veterinarian can advise you as to your dog's body condition. Among dogs the incidence of obesity increases with age, with a low of 12 to 20 percent at one to four years of age to about 40 percent over 12 years. The following guidelines for dogs who are overweight or have the tendency to become overweight are presented as suggestions. They are not intended to replace the advice of a veterinarian. · Reduce the dog's calorie intake by feeding less. A reduction of not more than one-fourth the previous caloric intake is recommended. · Omit feeding food from the table. · Switch to a lower calorie dog food such as Purina ® Fit & Trim ® brand dog food formulated for adult dogs in need of a weight reduction or weight maintenance program. · Do not feed high calorie treats. · Avoid diets high in fat. · Enlist the cooperation of all family members to help ensure a successful weight reduction program. · Two or three small daily feedings help prevent the dog from feeling hungry and keep it from begging. · Combine exercising your dog with diet management. · Make certain plenty of fresh drinking water in a clean bowl is available at all times. The A, B, C' s of Health Care for Your Dog Always feed a nutritionally complete and balanced dog food appropriate for your dog's life stage and activity level. Bring your dog to your veterinarian regularly for its vaccinations, internal and external parasite check and physical examination. Consider your dog's environment - keep it clean and comfortable |
Inappropriate Chewing and Separation Anxiety Training a pet takes time, understanding, patience and consistency. Here are a few of the more common training challenges dog owners face, and some suggestions for working with them. How training works Dogs are pack animals, and as such are only comfortable when their role within the pack has been established. An established role allows the dog to predict the reactions and needs of the rest of his pack. Without a confirmed, consistent role, the dog never knows when punishment or rewards will occur, and will spend most of the time anxious and worried. Basic obedience helps to establish the owner in role of pack leader, and lays down clear behavior guidelines that the pack can follow. The lack of a clear pack leader will cause anxiety, since only a strong and definite pack leader can protect the pack and provide it with whatever is needed. If none of the humans take this role, the dog is force to attempt to assume it himself, since the pack must have a leader. The pack leader controls where the pack goes, when and what the pack eats and how the pack behaves toward one another. Having these clear guidelines allows the dog to relax, since he knows what behaviors earn what types of attention. Most trainers follow the 3 second rule in training. Dogs will attribute positive or negative attention to whatever was happening within the 3 seconds immediately before the attention was given. Be careful to only give your dog attention when appropriate, when current behavior, not past, deserves it. If your dog is growling at strangers, don’t reward the behavior by attempting to calm him. This merely reinforces that there must be something scary happening. Instead, a gentle “no”, and a friendly greeting of the stranger on your part will be more reassuring to the dog than your calming attempts. Inappropriate Chewing All dogs love to chew. It is as natural as barking or digging. Puppies, like young children, explore the world with their mouths. Dogs between six months and one year old are getting their adult teeth, and chew to relieve teething pain and itching gums. Adults dogs chew for a variety of reasons: out of boredom, loneliness, or just because it's fun. Teaching your dog to gnaw on appropriate items, while preventing him from inflicting serious damage on your home, can protect both your dog and your possessions. When you catch your pooch in the act, take the item away. Teach him to bring things to you and reward him for that. If you yell and chase him, it will become a game of keep-away. Give him something he's allowed to chew on instead. Praise when he starts to chew on the proper toy. He may chew out of anxiety while you are gone, choosing something with your scent on it, like the couch. When you leave, put something with your scent on it, like a t-shirt you’ve slept in, on the floor or in his crate for him to lie on. Crate him when you aren't able to supervise his activity. Have special chew treats he only gets when he is in his crate. There is no point in punishing the dog once the damage is done. He may have done it hours ago, and have no idea what you are so upset about. He'll learn that when you come home you are mad, and he'll start cowering and looking guilty even when he hasn't done anything wrong. Be sure your dog gets adequate exercise every day, and plenty of time with you, even if it is just lying at your feet. Boredom, loneliness, and excess energy often trigger destructive chewing. Keep a regular routine. Try to come home at the same time every evening, feed near the same time, etc. The stress of hunger or not knowing when you'll be back can trigger chewing. Bitter apple, pepper juice, or lemon juice sprayed on inappropriate plants or other chewable items will deter his urge to chew them. Provide him with lots of acceptable chew toys. Try rotating his chew toys, to keep interest high. Separation Anxiety Does your dog hate to be left alone? Is he frantic to get to you when left outside? Are you unable to leave him alone in another room? In the car? Separation anxiety is an emotional disturbance where the dog is frantic when left alone, even for short periods. Owners sometimes accidentally train their pet to be anxious. They over-nurture him with constant physical contact and conversation until he is unable to stand being alone. A dog that gets constant attention is unable to cope when you leave to go to work or the store. Start to wean your dog from constant attention by limiting physical contact. Don't sit and absentmindedly pet him. Make him earn your attention. Don't let him lie on your feet or lean on you. Gradually teach him to sit happily across the room from you. You may have to tie him to a doorknob initially The first few minutes will be the worst, so try to keep him busy with a favorite chew toy or treat. Teach him to relax alone. Put him in a room where he is comfortable. If he starts to whine or scratch, throw a bean bag at the closed door to startle him. You don’t want him to associate the noise with you, so be quiet. When he is quiet for a few seconds, let him out and ignore him for the first minute or two. Repeat the exercise, gradually working up from a few seconds to several minutes. Is the dog sleeping in your bed? Teach him to sleep on the floor by tying his leash to a dresser leg. You are still right there, just not touching him every second. As he gets used to this, put up a pet gate, and let him sleep just outside the doorway. As he gets used to less physical contact he will become more self-reliant. Crate train your dog so he will be in a safe confined place while you are gone. He won't feel responsible for the entire house and can relax. Start by teaching him to be in the crate while you are there, while you come and go from the room many times. When you leave or come home, don't make a big fuss over your dog. Ignore him until he calms down, then a quiet hello and a brief pat will do. When you leave, just go, no good-bye or anything. Practice going through your getting-ready-to-leave routine without going anywhere. Pick up your keys, your purse, your jacket, etc., and ignore the dog. Walk to the door and then turn and come right back in, ignoring him. Soon those visual cues will not have meaning and he will not react to them. Leave on a TV or radio so the house doesn't seem so empty. A recording with your voice on it sometimes helps, too. Canine education classes will also improve your dog’s confidence. If all else fails, ask your veterinarian about medicating your dog while he gets used to spending time alone. Sometimes just one tranquilizer one time is all it takes. Or your dog may have to take calming medication for several months. There are several drugs available that specifically treat anxiety in dogs. Give the solutions presented here plenty of time to work. It takes several weeks for a dog to learn a new behavior pattern and make it a habit. A few weeks invested in training will result in many happy years with your well-adjusted companion! Sources How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With by Clarice Rutherford & David H. Neil Choosing a Dog for Life by Andrew De Prisco, et al Dog Training in 10 Minutes by Carol Lea Benjamin Dog and Child Safety The relationship between a dog and a child can be magical, but it’s not automatic. Prevent upsetting or tragic situations by teaching your children and your dog how to behave together. How Dogs Think Dogs are pack animals, meaning they live in a group with a strict social structure. When a dog joins your household, he needs to learn his position within your family “pack.” He is always testing to see if he can move up in rank. For safety and comfort, everyone in the family needs to be higher in the pack order than the dog. Pack leaders eat first and walk ahead of other pack members. Pack leaders defend the pack and make the rules. The leader, or alpha dog, disciplines the lower pack members by nipping or growling to remind them he is in charge. A dog that knows his pack has a strong leader and is secure in his position in the pack feels secure, accepts the pack rules, and lives happily. Children often have a more difficult time establishing and holding their position in the pack, at least in the dog’s eyes. A dog is often eye level with a toddler, and this can be frightening to both him and the child. Or, he may view the child as a littermate, equal to him in height and social position. He may feel he has the right to discipline the child when he or she tries to take his food or toy, or plays too rough. Training both the dog and the child is essential to ensure safety and happiness. Children and the Family Dog Teach your children to respect the dog and realize that he is not a stuffed toy. He is a live animal that feels pain when hurt, has emotions, and has physical needs that must be met. Kids may unknowingly tease a dog by waving a toy around and snatching it away. Hitting with a stick or pinching an ear may cause a dog to snap, even though the child didn't intend to hurt. As a rule of thumb, don’t allow children to do to a dog what you would not allow done to a toddler. At the same time, the dog must learn his manners and not play too rough, put his mouth on an arm, jump up, or knock kids over. Avoid games of tug of war and keep-away. Good games for children and dogs are fetch, learning tricks, practicing obedience. Put the dog in his crate for a short while if he starts to get out of control. Protect the dog from children who do not treat him gently or follow your rules. He should be allowed some time out to rest when he has had enough. Make sure that children understand that the crate is his private area. Do not allow children to play in or on your dog’s crate, and never allow a child to crawl into the crate with the dog. This could cause the dog to feel trapped, and snap out of fear. Teach children to always speak to a sleeping dog before touching him. He might bite to defend himself before he realizes who you are. Children can help feed and clean up, but don't expect them to take sole responsibility for the dog's care. Dogs are family pets, and everyone should be involved in his care. Children and New Dogs Establish the house rules and enforce them from the day your new dog or puppy arrives. Be sure the entire family is consistent and uses the same rules (PETCO offers Care Sheets regarding this topic). Eventually, even little kids should be able to give obedience commands and have the dog obey. A small child should never be left alone with any dog. Allow them to get used to each other from across the room or yard. Your children may act differently than other children have acted with them. Allow him to keep his distance until he is comfortable rather than letting kids corner him or force him to be petted or hugged. If you are going to have a toddler in your life, prepare your dog now. When children are not present, take some treats and practice handling your dog. Gently hold your dog’s tail for a moment, then as you release praise and give the dog treat. Hold a paw or an ear the same way. This way the dog will associate such actions with good things. Don't relax your supervision because things are going well. Your new pet will go through a adjustment period of several weeks. He will be on his best behavior while he tries to figure out the rules. Once he settles in, he may get tired of a child's poking or pulling, and might nip to discipline. This is the way a dog would discipline another dog that has gotten too pushy. It is natural canine behavior, but unacceptable in a human family. In situations like this, the dog always loses, often being given up at the nearest shelter. Be careful not to make your children jealous by giving the new dog too much time and attention. They may retaliate by punishing the dog when you're not there. Children and Unknown Dogs The majority of dogs are friendly, wanting petting and interaction. But not all dogs are friendly, and it’s important for your child’s safety to know what they should do when encountering a dog of unknown temperament. Prepare your children for an encounter with a strange dog. Talk about and act out different situations. Teach your children how to approach and pet a dog. Use a stuffed toy and guide their hands at first. Introduce yourself to owner and dog: When they meet a dog they don't know, have them ask the owner, "May I please pet your dog?" If the owner says yes, it is often better to scratch the dog’s chest rather than patting the top of his head. If a dog seems afraid or backs away, leave him alone. Let him approach you, and don't force him to be petted. Don't allow kids to put their face right in front of any dog's face. Never try to kiss a dog! Know what an angry dog looks like: Barking, growling, snarling with teeth showing, ears laid flat, legs stiff, tail up, and hair standing up on its back. When you see a dog like this, keep your hands in your pockets and slowly walk away sideways. Don't look in the dog's eyes, and don't run. Screaming and waving your arms around (a natural response for a child) will cause the dog to chase. If a dog attacks, curl up in a ball on the ground and protect your face with your hands. Know when to stay away: Keep a safe distance from a dog that is eating or chewing on a bone. Some dogs will snap if you get too close because they are afraid you will take their food away. Don't go near a mother dog with puppies. She will try to protect them from strangers, and even a normally friendly dog could bite. Stay away from a dog that is chained or in a fenced yard. The dog may bite to protect himself because he can't get away. He doesn't know you won't hurt him. Don't shout, run around, or reach at dogs through open fences or windows. Never try to break up a dogfight. Teach your children to stay away from the fight and find an adult to help. Know what to do when bitten: If bitten, your child needs to tell an adult right away. Try to remember what the dog looked like, if it had a collar on, and where it went. Wash the wound with soap and water. Take your child to a doctor. Bite wounds easily get infected. Household Dangers Your dog is a trusting animal by nature. It does cross her mind that something could be dangerous. As her owner it is your responsibility to make sure her environment in the house is free from harm. How to Recognize Danger When you look around your house you may think that everything looks perfectly safe. But you and your dog may have very different views on what could be a toy or a tasty snack. When you dog proof your house, try to see it in your dog’s perspective. Hunker down to the height of your dog’s line of sight and take a look at what your dog sees. Look around for any hidden dangers that your dog may get herself into. Simply use common sense and take the same precautions as you would with a child. Common Chemical Dangers Most of us have homes with many different types of toxic chemicals used for cleaning. Chemical poisoning most commonly occurs when dogs: Drink a tainted substance Clean a toxic substance from their fur Eat a poisoned pest Some items to watch out for include: Antifreeze that contains ethylene glycol has a sweet taste that attracts animals but is deadly if consumed. Chemicals used on lawns and gardens, such as fertilizer and plant food. Rodent poisons and insecticides are one of the most common sources of poisoning. De-icing salts used to melt snow and ice are paw irritants that can be poisonous if licked off. Common Food Dangers A dog’s body is quite different from humans. Food items that are beneficial to a human can be toxic to dogs. It is best to not feed your dog table scraps. A few items of note to keep in mind include: Chocolate, grapes and raisins are toxic to dogs. Human medication such as painkillers, cold medicines, vitamins, diet pills and other medication can all be toxic to animals. Leftovers such as chicken bones easily shatter and can stab or choke a dog. Rawhide doggie chews may have larger pieces that break off and be swallowed. Always purchase chews that are sized appropriately for your pet and supervise while in use. Common Household Item Dangers Objects that seem harmless can become a danger to your dog if used improperly, or accidentally ingested. Some common items that can be hazardous include: String, yarn, rubber bands, coins and even dental floss are easy to swallow and can cause intestinal blockages or strangulations. Toys with removable parts (squeaky toys, or stuffed animals with plastic eyes, and ribbons) can pose a choking hazard to your dog. As a rule, always use toys no smaller than a ping-pong ball as a dog toy to avoid choking. Balls can be deadly if they are too small for the dog that is playing them. Balls with slippery outer coatings (racquet balls, golf balls) can be an especially potent choking hazard. Stuffed toys, if ripped apart can be dangerous. Tug toys are fine if your dog is gentle, but if your dog is more aggressive, tug games can make your dog more aggressive and cause problems. Ornamental plants that are poisonous to animals. Protect Your Dog from Common Household Dangers Basic Canine Education 2 of 2 SKU 983608 © 2004, PETCO Animal Supplies, Inc. All rights reserved. (0815) Household Safety Checklist Inside the home, make sure to: 1. Yes ( ) No ( ) Make sure all doors, including patio entrances, are closed? 2. Yes ( ) No ( ) Make sure any pet door is the right size and closes properly? 3. Yes ( ) No ( ) Keep any dangerous food, such as chocolate, out of range of your dog? 4. Yes ( ) No ( ) Keep medication, dietary supplements and antibiotics high and safe? 5. Yes ( ) No ( ) Make sure all the garbage in the house is secure and inaccessible? 6. Yes ( ) No ( ) Check that all cleaning supplies are out of reach? 7. Yes ( ) No ( ) Keep all dangerous objects off the floor and out of reach? 8. Yes ( ) No ( ) Close the lid on the toilet bowl and stop using any sanitizing flush products? 9. Yes ( ) No ( ) Put away all sharp objects that might cut your dog's paws or mouth? 10. Yes ( ) No ( ) Put childproof latches on all cabinets containing hazardous substances so your dog can't 'slip' the latch? 11. Yes ( ) No ( ) Dog-proof any poisonous plants or place them where your dog can't get at them? 12. Yes ( ) No ( ) Pick up any toys, such as string, that could be dangerous if swallowed? 13. Yes ( ) No ( ) Place any pesticides out of reach or be doubly sure to replace them with nontoxic substances? 14. Yes ( ) No ( ) Make sure to keep your dog away from litter boxes used by other pets? 15. Yes ( ) No ( ) Make sure your dog has some toys to chew on so she doesn't try to chew electric wiring or other dangerous objects? What to do if Your Dog is Poisoned Keep a good dog emergency handbook and a first-aid kit in your home. Know how much your dog weighs, since treatments are often measured in proportion to the animal’s weight. If you think your dog has consumed any dangerous products, the first thing you must do is determine what substance is responsible. Read the product’s label for the list of ingredients and for any instructions on accidental ingestion. Call your vet immediately. If your pet needs to make a trip to the vet, remember to take the product container in question with you to give your vet a better idea of what your pet may have ingested. You can also call the National Animal Poison Control Center. Observe your dog’s symptoms carefully. If she is vomiting or has diarrhea, you may want to take samples to the vet to help with diagnosis. The treatment will vary according to the poison, and whether it has been ingested, inhaled, or absorbed through the skin. Jumping and Barking Jumping up on people While that puppy may be absolutely darling as it hops up and down on your leg, trying to get your attention, the same behavior in the 70-pound adult could not only be scary, but downright dangerous to small children and frail adults. Habits developed in puppyhood can be difficult to correct. Start young, and don’t allow the puppy to jump up on you. Jumping up on you is a perfectly natural behavior, stemming from the dog’s desire to sniff your breath and lick your face in greeting and submission. Because this is a natural and instinctive reaction, it is best to replace it with another behavior, rather than simply try to stop it all together. Try teaching your dog to sit when greeted. "Sit" works well because if he's sitting, he can't jump! Follow through. If you can't enforce the sit, don't ask for it. He knows when he can ignore you. Keep treats handy while he's learning, to reward correct responses. Teach him to sit any time and any place you ask him to, not just at the front door. Try folding your arms across your chest and don't look at the dog; turn away from him, ignore him, and walk away. If walking away just revs him up more, stand your ground and wait until he quits jumping (eventually!). Then praise him. Don't touch your dog or look him in the eyes, because he'll jump right back up. A quick squirt in the mouth from a water bottle will surprise your dog and interrupt his jump. You may want to add a tablespoon of vinegar to make it more unpleasant. Aim for his mouth, not his eyes. Praise him ("Good off!") when he quits jumping. Another correction for jumping is to grab his front paws and hold them while pinching his toes. He will be uncomfortable and struggle to get down. Be sure not to look him in the eyes or talk to him: both are rewards for jumping up. Tell him "Off" and release him. Praise him when he has four feet on the floor. Say "Off" (as in "get off of me") instead of "Down" (meaning "lay down") so you won't confuse him. Practice in different places and with lots of different people. Have your dog on a leash so you can enforce your commands. Teach him to sit-to-greet in many social situations. Practice asking him to sit-to-greet while you are in a chair, while you are laying down, in the backyard, at the park, etc. Excessive Barking Barking is so self-rewarding that your dog can easily slip into the habit. Owners often accidentally train their dogs to bark, by rewarding the dog with attention (even negative attention) when he is barking. Figure out why and when your dog barks. If your fence is see-through he may react to every person, car or bird going by and runs the fence line barking. He thinks he has successfully chased them away! All that stimulation with no interaction causes frustration and result in more barking. A solid fence that blocks his view may cut the noise somewhat, but a better solution might be to bring the dog inside or build a separate dog run away from the action. A similar scenario happens when someone comes to your front door. The visitor leaves, and the dog believes he has successfully chased him away. To stop this, recruit a friend to come to the door repeatedly. Praise the dog for barking a warning then take over, asserting your pack leader role in his eyes. Keep a leash by the front door, and ask him to sit while you open the door. Usually by third try, the dog starts to understand, and sits much more quickly. Make it a game, rewarding him with a treat before he gets up. Does your dog bark at you? When he was a puppy you may have teased him with a toy, and thrown it for him when he started barking at you. You’ve trained him to get what he wants by barking! He can recognize from your body language that you are fixing dinner (or leaving the house, or getting ready for a walk). Desensitize him to those actions. Go through all the motions of fixing his food, and then walk away without giving it to him. Don’t return to feed him until he stops barking. Use similar methods to reduce or end barking at other activities, such as going for a walk, leaving for work, etc. Make sure not to reward his barking, especially by yelling at him. That’s just barking back to him as far as your dog is concerned. If the dog barks while you are at work try leaving him indoors in a crate while you are gone. He will learn to relax and go to sleep instead of feeling like he has to protect his territory. Once reliable indoors (meaning he is housetrained and won't chew from anxiety) you can leave him in one room or loose in the house. Leave the TV or radio on, or even a recording of your voice, to comfort him and mask outside noises. Close the curtains to block his view. Have an exercise session before you leave, and leave him with a wonderful chew bone or toy to occupy him while you are gone. Start by leaving for short periods, gradually lengthening them as he gets used to being alone. Other solutions Citronella or battery controlled anti-barking collars work well with some dogs. Citronella squirts the dog with a strongly scented, sour flavored juice. Battery operated collars give the dog a correction or emit an ultrasonic sound that hurts his ears. Don't just put the collar on him and leave the first time you use it. Make sure the dog understands where the correction is coming from and how to make it stop before you leave the dog alone. Sources How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With by Clarice Rutherford & David H. Neil Choosing a Dog for Life by Andrew De Prisco, et al Dog Training in 10 Minutes by Carol Lea Benjamin Leash Training Long walks with your dog are a great exercise, and a great way to increase your bond with your dog. But sometimes it can be hard to tell who’s walking whom! Teaching your dog to walk politely on a leash is the first step in creating a lifetime of good exercise and fun. Equipment Needed: Collar: Buckle collar: Will not control dogs that are untrained; best for leaving on dog to hold ID tags and licenses. Chain collar: Also called training collar or choke chain; only tightens when you give a correction; should be draped over neck so it hangs loosely; do not haul the dog around with this type of collar; give short, sharp corrections to get attention, then quickly release; the thicker the chain, the milder the correction; never leave on dog unless attached to a leash; never use for tying out. Prong collar: Gives equal correction by pinching, around the dog's neck, and is easier on the trachea than a chain collar. These collars can be harmful and are only for professionals and should not be used without professional supervision. Never leave on your dog unsupervised; never use for tying out. Head halter: Wraps over nose and behind ears; works like a horse halter; controlling the head controls the body; works on dog’s submission instincts; dog must be trained to accept the halter and not to paw at it or try to rub it off; especially good for dogs that are strong pullers; not for use on extremely short-muzzled breeds. Harness: Not recommended with strong pullers; may increase pulling tendencies; transfers all of dog’s pulling power to leash. No-pull harness: Must be used with care; can cause injury to legs and shoulders if used improperly. Leash: Leather or cotton: Easy to grip; check with each usage for signs of wear or strain. Nylon: Can color coordinate with dog's collar: check with each usage for signs of wear or strain. Chain: Does not wear easily; cannot be chewed; never wrap around your hand as injury can occur if your dog suddenly attempts to bolt. Flexi leashes: Extendable leads ranging from 16 – 28 feet in length; good for trained dogs only. Treats: Training treats should be small, easily eaten, and exciting. Treats are great ways to encourage your dog’s happy participation in the training process. Instructors recommend six-foot leashes so you can teach your dog commands from a short distance away. But when walking, if you give your dog six full feet, he'll pull out to the end and be much harder to control. If you get a long leash, coil it in your hands and only let out enough so your dog can walk comfortably at your side. Basic Pointers A good canine instructor can help you get started if you are not an experienced trainer. Dedicate your daily walk time to training sessions for a few weeks. Be consistent. Your dog should not be allowed to walk while pulling on you. If a dog has been tied out on a chain, he is likely to pull because he is used to pulling on a chain. A leash is just another chain to him and must be introduced to him correctly. A dog that charges out the front door and then drags you down the road thinks he's in charge. Ask your dog to sit before you open the door, have your dog remain sitting until you let him go out, and then make him walk out. You go out first, since you are the leader of the household. Training Puppies Use a lightweight buckle collar for a puppy. Start by letting him drag the leash around the house for a few minutes. He'll get used to the weight of the clip and leash putting a little pressure on his neck. Occasionally pick up the end of the leash and just hold it. He'll discover that pulling doesn't release the pressure, but 'giving' to the leash does. Be there to supervise so he doesn't get tangled in furniture and get scared. A five-minute session is about all a puppy can handle. The first time you hold the leash, puppies may get upset and thrash around. Don't pull or try to comfort them. They will adjust quickly. Praise them when they calm down. (If you comfort puppies, you are just confirming in their minds that the leash is a bad thing) Tell them this is a fun game, and soon they’ll be wagging their tails and ready for more. Take advantage of the fact that pups will follow you everywhere. Up until about four months they'll want to be right at your side. After that, they start to test you and explore a little more. Start early and build a good foundation of training for when he becomes a teenager! When you are ready to actually lead your puppy, start with a pocket full of treats and take just a few steps. She will probably balk and hang back. Encourage him, and crouch down to his level if you need to. You can be pretty big and scary to such a little pup. Stop and praise him whenever he is by your side on a loose leash. When he pulls out in front, just stop until he turns to see why you aren't following him. Call him to you in a happy voice, praise him for coming, and start walking a few steps again. Pretty soon he'll figure out that he gets lots of treats and praise when he's at your side. Remember, no more than about five minutes, then quit. Make the training session as fun as play time. Training Adult Dogs An adult dog with a history of pulling will require more time to learn not to pull. It takes about 6 weeks to form a new habit and extinguish the old one. At about 4-5 weeks in the training cycle, it’s common for him to forget everything you've been working on. Just keep practicing. Behaviorists feel this 'learning plateau' is when learning transfers from short-term memory into long-term memory. Remember that consistency is the key. Enrolling in a canine education class will give you a very good place to start, but if lessons learned in class are not reinforced or carried through at home, then very little will actually be learned. Keep training sessions upbeat and fun. Treats and praise create better, quicker results than shouts or punishments. Do not constantly drill in the same pattern or on the same problem. Change directions, speeds, and focus frequently to keep your dog interested and listening. Sources How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With by Clarice Rutherford & David H. Neil Choosing a Dog for Life by Andrew De Prisco, et al Dog Training in 10 Minutes by Carol Lea Benjamin Outdoor Safety Dogs love to be outside, especially if you are out there with them. Keep your dog safe by following a few simple guidelines, and make outdoor time fun for both of you. Before They Go Out Just like you, your dog should always have some form of identification with her whenever she goes out. Options include: 1) Identification tags – Dogs wearing ID tags are immediately recognized as owned by someone, rather than thought of as strays. Dogs should wear a flat, buckle collar at all times with ID tag, city license, and rabies tag attached. Petco carries several types of ID tags, including tags that can be engraved. 2) Microchip – A tiny “chip,” the size and shape of a grain of rice, is injected under your dog’s skin between the shoulder blades. The number carried by the chip is then registered with the manufacturer, local animal control, a nation-wide registry, or all three agencies. A chip cannot be lost like a collar. Shelters and vets have scanners that read the number on the chip, and then call the registry or manufacturer to get the name and number of the owner. Be sure to change your registration information if you move. 3) Tattoo – Not used as often since the development of microchips, your dog can also be tattooed and registered. Guide Dogs for the Blind puts a tattoo in each ear of their dogs. Tattoos can also be placed on the inside of the dog's rear leg. The drawback to this identification method is that shelter workers or strangers are unlikely to roll the dog over or examine her closely for fear of being bitten. Different registries use various types of numbering systems and often don't cross register. Numbering systems include: the dog's AKC registration number, owner’s social security number, a phone number, or a number given by the registry. The Fenced Yard A securely fenced yard is the best option for outside confinement. Walk along your fence line and look at it through a dog's eyes. Attach wire mesh fencing to the bottom of the fence if there are spaces where she will be tempted to dig out. Burying wire mesh fencing several inches deep will help discourage digging. Repair any loose boards or chain link sections. Move doghouses or storage sheds out from the fence, to prevent escape by climbing. Use a clip on gate latches to remind others to secure the gate when they leave. Attach a small reminder. Some dogs even learn how to flip up a latch on their own. Do you have a swimming pool? Either fence the dog away from the pool, or teach her how to get out. Go in the pool with her and teach her where the steps are, and be sure she can get out on her own. If you have a pool cover, a dog can get trapped underneath it and drown. Is there shade? Hot summer days can cause heatstroke in dogs as well as people. Be sure to leave lots of water in a cool place. Pick up the kids' toys to prevent destruction and chewing. Smaller toys can be swallowed and cause intestinal obstruction requiring surgery. If your dog is likely to chew, remove garden hoses and protect wiring from the air conditioner or heater. Remove garden tools and always lock up chemicals. A dog door so she can go in and out as she pleases offers the best of all worlds when you can't be home. Your dog won’t feel so isolated when she can come inside and sleep in her favorite places. Before you leave a new dog in the back yard all day, leave her out there alone for an hour or so, and see what she does. Some dogs are used to being alone while their owners are at work, others are stressed in a new situation, and need to be introduced to the back yard routine gradually. Other Confinement Options DOG RUN: A chain link kennel with a roof or shade screen on it is a good alternative when you can't have a fence, or if the dog is a fence jumper. It also is a good solution if you have a pool. Be sure the kennel has shade, water, and protection from rain and snow. Get your dog used to it gradually, and be sure she isn't sitting out there barking all day while you are gone. Don't leave a dog in a run 24 hours a day, she needs company, exercise, and mental stimulation that she can't get in a dog run. TIE-OUT: This is recommended as a temporary containment method only. Leaving a dog tied out promotes barking and aggression. She sees everything happening around her , yet she can't join in. she also can't escape, and if threatened, may bite to protect herself from real or imagined danger. Dogs that are tied out can learn to pull on the leash when walked. They are used to the tension of the chain and pull against it. A chain might get tangled and prevent your dog from getting to water or shade. She could also get tangled in the chain and be injured. ELECTRONIC FENCE: This is a wire buried underground. Your dog wears a collar that gives her a mild correction if she goes over the wire boundary. If your dog is properly trained to understand the boundaries and why she is getting corrected, this method can work very well. The downside is that you MUST be sure the batteries in the collar don't go dead, and that the underground wire connection is working. Other animals can still get onto your property, which means your dog isn't protected from intruders, including possible dog thieves. GARAGE: A dog run in the garage with a pet door to the outside provides shelter and access for your dog to relieve herself. BUT, leaving your dog in the garage can be a fatal decision. Dogs are attracted to the smell of anti-freeze and some poisons (both are often stored in the garage), and may even knock over shelves to get to it. Dog-proofing your garage is a big job, but necessary. Aerosol cans, fertilizers, tools, and chemicals are all potential dangers. Also, summer temperatures can go well over 100 degrees in an airless, closed-up garage. The heat can be worse than outdoors because there is no air circulation. Check the temperature in your garage at midday on a hot day before leaving your dog shut inside. Note: The information on this Care Sheet is not a substitute for veterinary care. If you need additional information, please refer to the above sources or contact your veterinarian as appropriate. |