blog

Welcome to our Blog. This is designed to provide Chihuahua owners (and
other dog owners) with information and tips to help care for your dogs,
possibly with some anecdotal info about our dogs and puppies thrown in
from time to time. If there is something you would like us to blog about,
please send an email and let us know. We will do our best to post a new
entry every few weeks.
It has recently come to my attention that this may not qualify as a real
blog because there is no way for you to respond. I am working on
correcting that, but in the meantime, we'll just call this a web journal!

November 6, 2008
Cold Weather
With the cold weather coming on, I thought now would be a good time to discuss the effects of cold weather on
dogs, especially small breeds like Chihuahuas.
In general, most dogs don't mix too well with cold weather. There are, of course, a few exceptions....some dogs
enjoy cold climates, but on average, dogs don't like the cold, especially Chihuahuas. Chihuahuas are very much
warm weather dogs, and very much dislike the cold.
At this time of year, it is important to remember your dogs when you're trying to keep warm. A no brainer....if
temperatures are approaching freezing, your dog should not be left outside. At the very least, he should be
indoors out of the elements, preferably with a blanket or something to curl up with, where he can more efficiently
use his own body heat to keep warm. Ideally, he should be indoors in a heated environment. If your dog is in a
structure which does not have central heat, be careful using space heaters. Please be sure that you keep them on
a non-combustible surface, such as cement, and that you keep them away from any fabric, paper, etc., to prevent
fires. Also, be careful that your dog cannot come into contact with the heaters, as they can be very badly burned
should they brush against it.
Cold weather can have many effects on your dog's health. As with humans, exposure to cold temperatures,
especially for prolonged periods of time, degrades the immune system and opens your dog up to illness. Cold
weather also stiffens joints, leaving your dog more likely to develop arthritis. It slows the digestive process and
reduces your dog's energy level, which leads to weight gain. Taking your dog out side for a short time to get
some exercise is fine....necessary in fact. But please don't leave him out. Let him exercise and then bring him
back inside to keep warm.

November 23, 2008
"Can I put clothes on my Chihuahua?"
The answer to the question varies as much as Chihuahuas themselves do. Chihuahuas, as with most other dogs,
really don't need to wear clothes most of the time. There are some breeds, such as the hairless Chinese Crested,
that do well with clothing due to lack of their own "clothing". And, many Chihuahuas do well with clothing too,
especially in particularly cold times or places, as Chihuahuas are very much "warm weather" dogs. They really
don't care for the cold, and so many welcome a warming sweater or jacket when the temps plummet.
But then, there are some that.....well, let's just say...don't so much welcome it. There are a variety of ways that
your Chi may tell you that he does not, indeed, like the extra layers that you have added to his body. He may run
around the house like a mad dog, bumping into walls and furniture, screeching and howling the entire way, until
either you catch him, or he finally manages to get most of the offensive material off and dragging behind him. Or,
he may stand stone still, too afraid or too uncomfortable to move, glaring at you or looking unbelievably pitiful,and
stay that way until you pity him enough to take the horrible mess off of him. And then, there are those that will
calmly, rationally, RIP the offensive garment off of themselves and hide it under a cushion or bed to ensure, at
least in their minds, that you will never find it again, and therefore, certainly could not ever attempt to cover them
with it again.
Remember though, while these antics of the tortured Chihuahua may be amusing, your Chi is trying to tell you
something. I think that if he could actually tell you what he's thinking, it may sound something like this "Please,
beloved human, do not put an extra cover on me again, because I do not need it and I do not like it. If you insist
on covering my beautiful fur with those horrid garments again, I will be forced to hate you forever."
Seriously though, whether or not you can dress your Chihuahua depends entirely upon the Chihuahua. If your
Chi needs clothing for any reason, because he is cold or anything else, he will gladly and happily wear the clothing
that you put on him as long as it does not hurt or bother him with rubbing, choking or constricting his movement.
If he is not wearing the clothing....if he insists that it must come off....please take it off. Don't assume that he'll get
used to it. Some may get used to it, though they will likely never enjoy wearing it, but many never get used to it
and it's not only a bother to them, but an expense to you to keep replacing what they destroy trying to get it off.

*A side note....please be careful what clothing you choose to put on your Chihuahua. You'll want to be sure that
you do not put too much pressure on the neck and trachea. Also, you won't want to constrict the movement of
his legs and I think it's also a good idea not to put anything on him that will bend his ears down, as this can
damage the cartiledge and his ability to stand his ears up as they should be. Basically, the clothing that you choose
should allow your Chi to move and act the way he normally does or it is not appropriate for him.*

January 4, 2009
Dental Health
Dental health is just as important in canines as it is in humans, but we know it's much more difficult to maintain. If
your dog has been socialized by the breeder properly, and trained to the highest standard, he may actually stand
there with his mouth open and allow you to brush his teeth. However, we doubt very much that the majority of
dogs out there will allow this...and not because of socialization or training, but because dogs don't brush their own
teeth, so it's a very foreign concept for them. They do employ a method for cleaning their teeth though, which is
where we, as their humans who love them, come in. Dogs keep their teeth clean by chewing on things. None of
us want them chewing on our belongings though, so we must provide them with something to chew on which will
help keep their teeth and mouth healthy. Our recommendation, first and foremost, are rope toys. When played
with, they act as flossers for a dog's teeth. They are wonderful teeth cleaners and they are inexpensive and easy
to clean...just throw them in the washing machine.
There are several other types of toys on the market which are designed to help keep a dog's teeth clean.
Nylabone Super Tough Durables Chews are designed to actually brush the dog's teeth as he chews. And
Nylabone also has a host of dental chews (one is called the Hercules), in a variety of shapes. They each have
little bumps on them which help to clean plaque off of teeth during chewing. Nylabone also has a line of toys
called Rhino. They come in different shapes, but each has a rope attached to it. One is a ball with grooves that
have little bristles inside, which would brush the teeth during chewing. And, also from Nylabone, the Double
Action Dental Chew, which offers both a nylon and softer rubber mint flavored chewing option (which helps to
freshen breath), both which offer plaque removal. Kong has a dental toy as well. It's a grooved rubber toy with a
rope on each end. The grooves scrape plaque off the teeth as the dog chews.
There are also a variety of edible chews on the market that are supposed to help clean teeth, but we don't
recommend these as teeth cleaners. They are better left as ocassional treats.
Of course, a dental cleaning by your vet is a good idea too. However, we do have some concerns about this
with small breed dogs. Any time a dog has his teeth cleaned, he must be put under general anesthesia. Most
times, it's not a great idea to put a small breed dog under like that..it can create many complications. That's not to
say that you shouldn't have your small breed's teeth cleaned. We just recommend that you don't do it any more
often than necessary.

January 25, 2009
Edible Chew Treats
I figured I would follow the dental health entry with entries regarding chewing. People ask us all the time "how
can I keep my puppy from chewing on things he's not supposed to?" Our answer...edible chew treats. Usually
when puppies begin chewing on things, it's because they are teething. This teething phase usually begins
somewhere around 3 months of age and can last 2-3 months or more, depending on how quickly your puppy
looses his baby teeth. And yes, some puppies continue to chew even after that because they enjoy it. It's fun for
them...it's how they play. So, our suggestion is to keep plenty of chew treats on hand. Some of the ones we
recommend are Nylabone Healthy Edibles, Nylabone Nutritionally Enhanced Healthy Edibles, Bone-a-mints,
Booda Bimple Bones, and of course, good ole Greenies, which is very often the favorite of the dog. We
recommend staying away from rawhide, especially for small and tiny breeds. Dogs don't digest cow hide very
well, and the undigested portions of rawhide can get lodged in the digestive tract and create serious and
expensive problems for your dog. However, dogs can digest pig hide much better, so porkie sticks, bones or
even pigs ears are also good chew treats and are usually fairly long lasting. If your dog is a very aggressive
chewer, you may find that he will finish one of these treats in a matter of minutes. That's not really the goal of
these treats. Too many treats will put weight on your dog quickly. So if your dog is finishing these treats too
quickly, try getting him a larger size (all of these edible chew treats come in different sizes). If he's still finishing
them too quickly, then you'll want to cut back on the edible chew treats and find him some chew toys that satisfy
his urge to chew. We'll post an entry on those soon!

February 15, 2009
Non-Edible Chew Toys
Wow, now this is a huge subject. All dogs should have some non-edible chew toys, even if their preference
really is the edible chew treats because they really should only be getting one a day of those. There are an
unbelievable number of these chew toys on the market. It's mind boggling. I'll recommend a few, but with so
many out there, there's no way I could have seen them all. So instead of trying to make tons of
recommendations, I'd rather just give you an idea of what to look for in choosing a chew toy for your dog. If you
have a light chewer, your best bet may be stuffed animals, especially those with arm/legs or other protrusions that
the dog can grab on to and chew. Just be sure that you get stuffed animals made for dogs. They are made to
withstand the vigors of chewing without coming apart, at least for a while. Regular toy stuffed animals aren't and
may come apart very easily, which can be bad if your dog eats what comes out of them...and many dogs do.
For moderate chewers look for toys which are harder than stuffed animals and the more things sticking off the
toy, the better. That's what the dog grabs on to to chew, usually. You'll want things like Kongs (again...Kong has
sooo many products) or any other regular rubber chew toys. Try to stay away from anything plastic as many
dogs find it very easy to chew pieces off of plastic toys. Tennis balls may also be good for moderate chewers,
and they do make them in several sizes, including one that is only 1.5 inches in diameter. I know...tennis balls
didn't seem like a great chew toy to me either, but some dogs really enjoy chewing on them. Kong also makes
some tennis ball toys with protrusions on them that are ideal for chewing. Another great toy for moderate
chewers is a ball called the Nobbly Wobbly. Nobbly Wobbly II has a bell inside them...my puppies always love
these. They are woven rubber balls, some are spiky and some more rounded, but the way they are woven allows
small mouths to get the perfect grip on the weave to chew. And finally, for light and moderate chewers, it's back
to Wal-Mart. They carry large jacks, in the cat section. I don't know what cats do with them, but Chihuahua
puppies turn them into teethers. You can't use this with bigger dogs though...they're too small. But for small and
tiny puppies especially, these are great. WARNING: Before giving your puppy these jacks, check the balls on
the end of each spike. Two of them will come off. The rest are molded to the jack, but there are two that are
just glued on. You'll want to remove these before giving these jacks to your puppy. We know from experience
that the puppies can chew these off. We've never had one choke on them, thank goodness, but it is definitely a
choking hazard.
And for aggressive chewers...this is the most difficult one for recommendations. As with the others, look for toys
that have protrustions. The trouble is, it's hard to find toys like that which will stand up to an aggressive chewer.
Also, aggressive chewers come in all sizes, but unfortunately, dog toy manufactures often seem to think that it's
only big dogs that chew aggressively, so many of the toys made for aggressive chewers won't do a tiny dog much
good...the toy is often bigger than the dog. Look for toys made of canvas. They'll stand up better than stuffed
toys. Also, Kong makes a line of their original product for aggressive chewers. They're called Xtreme Kongs
and they're supposed to be super hard rubber. There is another line of toys called Tire Biters that are good for
aggressive chewers. There are several varieties of that line.
And for all chewers, rope toys are great. If your dog is an aggressive chewer, you may want a rope toy that is
bigger than the size your dog really would need. Rope toys are also great dental toys, helping to "floss" the teeth
and keep them clean.
Don't forget, February is Pet Dental Month, so check with your vet for specials on teeth cleaning, chew treats or
maybe even the new dental vaccine!

March 8, 2009
To Immunize or Not to Immunize!
As immunizations go, we are in a time of what seems to be mass confusion. For both children and puppies, the
"experts" can't seem to make up their minds whether we're over-immunizing or under-immunizing. That is
because the very diseases that we immunize against are unpredictable. They are invisible, they change and
mutate, they appear once in very minor form and then come back later strong and virulent and wreak havoc on
their vitcims...and on the minds of those who treat the victims.
The current train of thought among veterinarians seems to be that we over-vaccinate our dogs....at least our adult
dogs. Many believe that once a dog has completed his puppy series, he may well have immunity for life. Others
believe that while lifetime immunity may not be the case, yearly vaccinations are not necessary either...once every
three years is what that thought process recommends. Some say we should not bother to immunize for this
disease, or that disease, at all. And in truth, there are some diseases, such as leptospirosis, that present so many
different strains that it is impossible to immunize against them all. And for "lepto", the vaccination won't prevent
infection...it'll simply mean that if your dog contracts it, he may become a carrier of it, infecting other animals, and
you may not ever even know it. And then there are some clinical illnesses, such as kennel cough, that are almost
always caused by more than one organism, and it is often difficult to determine which organisms are causing the
problem, because there are several. Most people think "bordetella" when they hear "kennel cough" and while
bordetella is very often part of the cause, it is rarely the entire problem and in fact, possibly may not be present at
all. Fortunately, kennel cough is easy to treat and a rapid and complete recovery is almost always the outcome
unless there are other factors present. And then you have at least one vaccination, for a protozoal disease called
giardia, that will not prevent infection, but claims to reduce clinical signs and the amount of time that the animal
sheds the disease. And, in reality, the same is true for parvovirus. Even a full series of shots and yearly boosters
may not prevent your dog from getting parvo. It will, however, decrease the chances of your dog contracting
parvo, and it will also significantly improve your dog's chances of survival.
In the end, the debate over whether and when to immunize stems from the necessity of it and relative safety of the
vaccine itself. The "big 5", which is what I call the 5 diseases that all combination vaccines immunize against are
Parainfluenza (a possible contributing factor for kennel cough), Adenovirus Type II (which offers cross immunity
against Hepatitis also), Distemper, and Parvovirus. These vaccines are widely accepted as necessary and I,
personally, agree. All vets give them as part of their puppy shots and also as part of their yearly boosters. I have
never known the safety of these vaccines, in puppies, to be an issue. Some combination vaccines also include a
vaccine for Coronavirus. This virus presents much like the Parvovirus and is often very difficult to diagnose, as
there is no easy, in-house test that your vet can administer. Usually, Coronavirus is not as deadly as parvo, but it
can still make your dog very sick. As with the "big 5" vaccines, I know of no safety issues, for puppies, with the
Coronavirus vaccine. The safety of the bordetella vaccine, in puppies, is also, to my knowledge, not in question,
nor is the safety of the giardia vaccine for use in puppies. But, then we have the vaccine for leptospirosis. This
vaccine is frightening to me, as the owner of the smallest breed in the world. At least one of the makers of this
vaccine actually puts a warning on the label against vaccinating puppies and small dogs of any age with this
vaccine at all. My vet doesn't use the vaccine in the first 2 puppy shots, but they do in the last two in the series
because of the age and relative size of the puppies. But the "lepto" vaccine is known to cause some significant
side effects, especially in small dogs.
When I say that I know of no safety issues in puppies, you must understand that what I mean is that the resulting
immunity far outweighs the possible side effects of the vaccine. Also notice that I said "in puppies." This is
because in adult dogs, the vaccines can actually have the opposite effect intended, which means that the dog's
antibodies that were produced as a result of the puppy series of vaccinations, which may, in some cases, last a
lifetime, but certainly can last many years, may actually "fight off" the vaccine, instead of allowing the vaccine to
help the dog's body to produce more antibodies, thereby rendering the vaccine completely ineffective and
exposing your dog to the possible side effects, with absolutely no benefit.
Another consideration in vaccinating your puppy has to do with timing. When pups are born, they nurse from
their mothers, right? During the first couple of days after birth, they are consuming colostrum, which is rich in
antibodies for all of these diseases which the mother's body has produced. Depending on how aggressive a
nurser each individual puppy is, and also dependant somewhat upon order of birth, each puppy may get a
different amount of colostrum, with means that each pup would get a different amount of immunity from the
mother. But, as the pups get older, the immunity that they get from the mother's milk gradually wears off. This is
where it gets tricky. In most cases, if you immunize too early, you could face a situation where the maternal
immunity is present enough to fight off the vaccine, rendering it completely ineffective, but there may be a window
where, while the maternal immunity kills off the vaccine, it's not strong enough to kill off an actual infection. This is
part of the reason why we do puppy shots in a series, to try and present the vaccine into the puppy's system at
the correct time, so that the maternal immunity cannot fight it all off, but before the puppy is actually exposed to
any infectious disease, because each pup will be different in this timing.
Some say that there may be a solution to this problem. It's called a "high titer vaccine." What this means is that
the vaccine contains more "antigens" (or infectious bodies) than the regular vaccine. The point of this is to
introduce enough antigens into the body to bind up all the maternal antibodies that are present and still leave some
antigens left over to stimulate the puppy's body to produce antibodies of its own. Theoretically, it sounds great.
We certainly hope that it works because we are starting a new vaccination protocal based on this idea.
In the end, there is so much conflicting data regarding when, how, what and if to vaccinate that all we can really
do is sort through it the best that we can, find a vet that we trust and follow his/her advise, and hope that we've
done the best that we can for our animals.

Here is a link that we have found very informative in regards to vaccines and their possible side effects.

http://www.labbies.com/immun.htm

April 16, 2009
LeapFish
I know, this post has nothing to do with Chihuahuas, right? Right! But this new search engine is so interesting that
I had to write about it. LeapFish is a new engine that is just starting to gain recognition, but it the very best search
engine I have ever seen. For starters, it is not an independent entity like Google or Yahoo Search. In fact, what
LeapFish does is bring together the best and most popular sites on the web to present you with the most well
organized and comprehensive search engine available. It brings Google, Yahoo, MSN, Ebay and YouTube
together on one lightening fast, easy to search page and allows you to move between the results on the three
different search engines, as well as clearly displaying auctions on Ebay, news from MSN, Yahoo Answers, and
even YouTube videos that relate to the key words you searched. The YouTube section is particularly interesting
because you do not even have to click on the videos. The extra-large thumbnail versions that are displayed on
the LeapFish page play when you hover your cursor over them!
In addition to the sites LeapFish already partners with, they are working on partnerships with other popular sites
on the internet and hopefully will have those worked out soon. Fox News, Forbes Magazine and a host of other
popular television and media outlets have started the buzz. Now we have to keep it going. Go check it out and
see LeapFish for yourself! I truly think you'll love it. I do!

May 31, 2009
Fleas and Ticks
It is that time of year again, when fleas and ticks plague our beloved pets and vets try to get the word out about
how to keep our pets healthy and safe, so we thought we would help!
Fleas are the most common external parasites for dogs, followed closely by ticks. Each of these parasites comes
complete with a unique set of problems that they cause their host. But the good news is, they are easily
controlled.
Fleas are most commonly associated with itching, but they carry other problems as well. For instance, fleas
transmit tape worms, and some dogs have allergies to fleas that can cause major skin irritations.
Ticks are a little different. There are several different types of ticks and they carry several different types of
diseases which can be very problematic for dogs and humans alike. Rocky Mountain Spotted Tick Fever and
Lyme Disease are among these diseases and are possibly the most common.
Luckily for dog owners, fleas and ticks are easy to control in dogs.
There are numerous products on the market to control fleas and ticks. Canine Advantix, Revolution, Bio Spot,
Zodiac, Frontline, and several others are effective spot on treatments, which are a single application per month,
applied to the skin between the shoulder blades.
There are a number of sprays that are effective in controlling fleas and ticks. These are effective, but they wear
off quickly (most in about 7 days) and they also are not as safe as the spot on treatments because they cover the
entire body, which puts it in areas that the dogs can easily reach to lick off.

For information on flea and tick control click the following links
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&articleid=591

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&articleid=601

For information on Rocky Mountain Spotted Tick fever in dogs, click the link below
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&articleid=472

For information on the types of ticks click the link below
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&cat=1588&articleid=603

For information on Lyme Disease in humans click the link below
http://www.anapsid.org/lyme/matthewgoss/typeofticks.html

August 3, 2009
Heartworms
This is the time of year when heartworms can really cause problems for dogs and their owners, so I think it is
appropriate for me to comment on them.
All dogs can get them, but they also can all be protected from these nasty and potentially deadly parasites.
Heartworms are definitely not a dog's best friend.
There isn't a great deal to say about this type of worms. Mature heartworms live in the hearts of their hosts and
lay eggs, which are swept away with the blood pumping through the heart. The eggs circulate throughout the
body until they are mature, and then they come to rest in the heart. Therefore, heartworms are passed from dog
to dog by mosquitos. When a mosquito bites an infected dog, it carries the heartworm eggs from that dog to the
next one that it bites.

The part that makes these worms deadly is their numbers. The heart of a dog, especially a tiny breed like
Chihuahuas, can only handle so many heartworms clogging it up before the heart begins to have to work overtime
to keep up with the demands of the body. Too many worms blocking off heart valves, filling up the chambers of
the heart and clogging up major arteries and veins can lead to disastrous consequences for your dog. Dogs with
heartworms most often die from a form of congestive heart failure.

The worse news? Often the treatment that vets use carries just as deadly a consequence. The only way to kill
heartworms is to poison them. It takes large doses of Ivomectin to kill adult heartworms, which in turn, means
that you're also administering large doses of this poison to your dog, and sometimes the dog's system cannot
withstand it. Dogs can die from heartworm treatment.

The good news is, it's easy to prevent your dog from getting heartworms. There are many monthly heartworm
preventatives on the market now, including Heart Guard and Revolution. Your dog must be tested for
heartworms to ensure that he is negative, and you must have a vet's prescription for these preventatives, but they
are well worth it. Also, there are topical flea and tick treatment for dogs that have mosquito repellant in them,
such as Frontline Plus and K-9 Advantix. Those are effective in keeping the heartworm carrying mosquitos off of
your dog.

It is very important for the health and safety of your dog that you get him on heartworm preventative and have him
tested at least yearly for heartworms.

See the links below for more information.

More info about heartworms
http://www.dr-dan.com/heartwor1.htm

Info on K-9 Advantix
http://www.jefferspet.com/ssc/product.asp?CID=0&mscssid=1SA6PB2FXRU88PLK1NP1LA4D00575ML9

Info on Frontline Plus
http://www.jefferspet.com/ssc/product.asp?CID=0&mscssid=1SA6PB2FXRU88PLK1NP1LA4D00575ML9

Info on the different monthly heartworm preventatives
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/general.cfm?gid=262

September 14, 2009
Ear Mites
Since we are talking parasites, we may as well touch on these little "buggers". Ear mites are a parasite that many
dogs owners have probably already dealt with. They are very common and quite contagious. Ear mites are a
fairly simple parasite and there isn't a great deal to say about them.

Ear mites spend their entire life cycle on their host. They irritate the linings of the ear, down in the ear canal and
can cause some pretty intense itching. The most common signs of an ear mite infection are a black, waxy build up
in the ear and an animal that pays more than normal attention to it's ears, such as scratching at the ears or shaking
it's head more than normal.

Treatment of ear mites usually involves a pyrethrin and mineral oil solution that is massaged into the ear.
Treatments may not be effective if the ears are not cleaned thoroughly before treatment, or if the treatment is
discontinued too early. Treatment is often recommend in 3 cycles, one week apart, with a cleaning of the ear
prior to each cycle.

For more information on ear mites, visit the link below.

http://www.dr-dan.com/earmites.htm

October 11, 2009
Mange
Mange, what an ugly word. Nobody likes to deal with it. Mange can be a difficult and messy thing to treat.
Mange is caused by a parasitic mite that burrows into the animals skin, which is what causes the itching. There
are two primary forms of mange, sarcoptic mange and demodectic mange. These two forms are very different.
They are caused by different mites, present with different symptoms and deal the animal varying amounts of
misery.
Sarcoptic mange usually centers around the face and ears, but can also appear on the legs, especially at the joints,
and even on the feet. Sarcoptic mange is contagious, even to people, though in people, usually the only symptom
is a slight itching that goes away without treatment. Itching and hair loss are the primary symptoms of this
parasitic infection. It is sarcoptic mange that causes the intense itching. Infected animals will scratch themselves
literally raw, allowing secondary skin infections to take hold. It is those infections that will make an animal with
sarcoptic mange ill. The good news is, sarcoptic mange usually responds well to treatment. The primary form of
treatment for this parasite is weekly injections of Ivermectin. Some breeds of dog do not do well on this
treatment though, and they will be treated with a weekly Lyme Sulfur dip. BEWARE: Small dog owers take
note...this dip is VERY toxic and has been known to do small breeds more harm than good. Recently a new
treatment has proven to be much more effective and safe for all dogs. A topical treatment with Revolution clears
up the mites with much decreased risk to the health of the dog or puppy.
Demodectic mange is a little different. The mites burrow into the hair follicles, which causes the hair loss. Dogs
with demodectic mange rarely have a great deal of itching, which helps to keep the secondary skin infections from
setting in. The primary symptom of this parasitic infection is hair loss. However, the hair loss can vary from one
very small patch, to complete hair loss over the entire body. This type of mange appears more commonly on the
torso.
There are two types of demodectic mange which get their names from the amount of hair loss associated with the
infection. Localized demodex is confined usually to one or a few small patches of hair loss. Generalized
demodex is the term for the wide spread hair loss. There is a higher risk of secondary infections in the
generalized form.
Demodex is usually considered the "puppy mange" because it is not often seen in healthy adult dogs. Unlike
sarcoptic mange, all dogs carry the mange mites for demodectic mange. They contract them from their mother
shortly after birth. Most of the time, the immune system keeps these mites in check, but in animals with
underdeveloped (in puppies) or weakened (in animals who have been ill) immune systems, the mites are able to
flourish. Treatment of demodectic mange is usually the same as in sarcoptic mange, but demodex does not usually
respond quite as easily to it. This form often requires a longer treatment cycle. However, the good news is, a
great many cases of demodex will clear up without treatment.

December 20, 2009
Worms
We all hate them, and practically every dog gets them at least once in its life. Parasitic worms of the digestive
tract are no fun to deal with, that's for sure. There are several types of parasitic worms, but the most common
are, by far, roundworms, followed by tapeworms, hook worms and whip worms. Most types, if treated
properly, pose little real threat to your dog. However, if left untreated, some dogs, especially puppies, can die
from worm infestation blocking their intestinal flow.
Roundworms look a bit like spaghetti. They are long and brownish or pinkish white in color. Live roundworms
can present in the stool before worming treatment is given. And dogs will expel dead roundworms after
treatment. In some cases, puppies may be born with roundworm larva already in their digestive tracts, but they
can also get them through nursing, which is why we worm at 2 weeks of age (the approximate time it takes for
roundworm larva to mature.) The most common symptom of roundworm infestation is the presentation of live
roundworms in the stool. But in some cases, roundworms can cause irritation in the bowel, which may lead to
diarrhea.
Roundworms are usually treated with pyrantel pamoate, which is sold as Strongid T, Evict or variety of other
names, including names that you can buy at our favorite place...Wal-Mart!! However, fenbendazole will also rid
your dog of roundworms (more info on this product below, in the discussion of whipworms)
For more information about roundworms, visit the link below.

http://www.dr-dan.com/roundwor.htm

Tapeworms can be a bit trickier. They can present before worming treatment is given as tiny segments that
resemble bits of rice. Or, they can present as a long whitish worm that comes out as your dog potties and then
sucks back up when he's finished. Or, they may not present at all. The symptoms are so few, and so few dogs
get any of them, that you may not ever even know your dog is infected. The symptoms can include "growling
tummies" and diarrhea.
Tapemworms do attach to the intestinal wall, which is why they suck back up into the intestines after your dog
potties. Because of this, they can cause some irritation in the intestines, which may lead to a bit of blood in the
feces. Tapeworms are difficult to diagnose because they don't lay eggs inside their host, which is how most
worms are detected in a fecal exam done by a vet. But, tapeworms are transmitted by fleas, so if your dog has
fleas, there's a good chance he also has tapeworms.
Over the counter wormers will not have any affect on tapeworms. Praziquantel or Droncit are the prefered
wormers for tapeworms. Dogs will not pass dead tapeworms after worming treatment because the wormers
disolve the worm's outer covering so that the worm is digested by the dog's digestive tract. For more infomation
on tapeworms, click the link below.

http://www.dr-dan.com/tapeworm.htm

Hookworms are interesting creatures. The most common way for your dogs to get hookworms is by walking in
an area where an infected animal has left feces. Hookworm larva deposited into soil mature into free living
organisims which can actually penetrate your dog's skin and infect the dog without the need for ingestion, which is
required for most other worm infestation.
Symptoms of hookworm infestation are diarrhea (especially black, tarry diarrhea), vomiting, loss of apetite,
weakness and in puppies, poor growth.
Dogs will not pass live hookworms prior to treatment, as the worms attach to the intestinal wall and because they
are very tiny and cannot be seen without the use of a microscope, which is why you will also never see them even
after treatment.
Hookworms are treated with pyrantel pamoate or fenbendazole (discussed below)
For more information about hookworms, click the link below.

http://www.dr-dan.com/hookworm.htm

Whipworms are quite infectious, but the only way for your dog to get whipworms is to actually eat the egg, which
is commom to other types of worms. Whip worms bury their entire heads into the large intestine of the dog and
they are not contagious to cats. Whipworms are also too tiny to see without a microscope, so you'll never see
your dog pass them, even after treatment. Like most other worms besides the tapeworm, diagnosis is made with
a fecal flotation exam which detects whipworm eggs.
Whipworms can be difficult to diagnose because they may not lay their eggs every day, so if you happen to take
your dog to the vet for a fecal exam on a day that the worms aren't laying eggs, whipworm infestation can be
easily overlooked. However, there are usually some signs of whipworm infestation, including diarrhea, especially
diarrhea that comes and goes (colitis), and weight loss.
Whip worms are easy to treat using fenbendazole, marketed as Panacur. This really is the only wormer that will
rid your dog of whipworms. For more information about whipworms, click the link below.

http://www.dr-dan.com/whipworm.htm

February 14, 2010
Other Intestinal Parasites

The two most common intestinal parasites in canines, besides intestinal worms, are coccidia and giardia. Both of
these organisms are protozoal and both can wreak havoc on the digestive system, especially of young puppies.
Coccidia and giardia usually present with almost identical symptoms. The beginning symptom is diarrhea, which
usually will progress to a very watery stool and often will be bloody or blood streaked. Then you may begin to
see some depression and fatigue, which are often the results of hypoglycemia and dehydration, brought about by
the diarrhea. Some pups with coccidia or giardia will refuse food and water and some won't....usually though, it's
those affected with giardia that refuse food and water because giardia often causes severe abdominal cramping.
Giardia infection usually takes place as a result of a contaminated water source, however, both coccidia and
giardia cysts can live in the soil for quite some time, so it is possible for puppies to pick up the cysts in the soil and
ingest them that way.
Coccidia and giardia infect the host in similar ways. Cysts are passed in fecal matter from infected animals and
any animal that comes into contact with that fecal matter can become infected by picking up the cysts on it's paws
and ingesting them when it cleans itself.
Once inside the host, giardia and coccidia begin to differentiate in how they act upon their hosts. For an indepth
look at how these two protozoal parasites behave inside the host, click on the links below.

http://www.marvistavet.com/html/coccidia.html

http://www.brenvet.com/encycEntry.cfm?ENTRY=29&COLLECTION=EncycIllness&MODE=full

http://www.idexx.com/animalhealth/testkits/giardia_canine/

Another area where these two protozoal organisms differ is how they are diagnosed. There is a snap test
available for giardia, which tests for the protien that the organisms use to encyst themselves. Because of this, the
snap test is not always reliable, as there will not be those protiens present in every stool. The protozoa will encyst
when changes in the digestive tract indicate that they are about to be expelled. Once encysted, the protiens will
dwindle and eventually there will be none left to create a positive test. Fecal examination can, at times, be used to
diagnose giardia, but it has a very low success rate as the organism is very very difficult to see, even under a
microscope.
Coccidia, on the other hand, is usually diagnosed with a fecal examination. Still difficult to see, it is usually
possible to find coccidia oocytes in the stool. Alternatively, a blood test may help to diagnose coccidia.

And these two parasites are also different in how they are treated. Coccidia is treated with Albon, and often an
antibiotic to ensure that no secondary infections set in. Giardia is treated with panacur (a common wormer) and
metronidazole, an antibiotic that not only helps to prevent secondary infections, but also appears to have some
effect on the giardia organisms themselves.

There is a rather controversial vaccination for giardia on the market as well, called Giardia Vax. It's made by
Fort Dodge. The controversy surrounds the debate over whether or not this vaccine actually benefits the animal.
It will not prevent infection, and does not claim to. The vaccine claims to reduce clinical symptoms and the
amount of time the animal will shed the cysts. If the vaccine actually does this, it would be very beneficial to the
animal because reduction of diarrhea would eliminate a whole host of problems associated with it, such as
hypoglycemia and dehydration, which are, many times, what the animal will actually succumb to. Also, reducing
the amount of time the cysts are shed may also help to reduce the risks of other animals becoming infected.
Some vets actually use the vaccine as part of the treatment for this parasite. The debate continues over the merits
of the vaccine, but hopefully it will prove to be beneficial and become a standard vaccine.

There is no absolute cure for either of those parasites, unfortunately, except for the animal's body's own defenses.
What makes the animal sick is the overwhelming rapidity with which these protozoas reproduce. If given time
and a little help with the medicines mentioned above though, most animals will be able to rid themselves of these
organisms and recover.

March 14, 2010
Lost Pets - Pet ID Systems

It's a dog lover's worst nightmare. Your pet gets out of your yard and the next thing you know, he's
missing...completely and totally gone. You search and search the area, put up posters and call animal control to
see if he's been picked up, but nothing pans out and your dog is still missing.
Nobody likes the above situation, so hopefully this entry will help you avoid it. There are a few good options for
pet identification that will help to get your pet back home should he/she come up missing. All vets, animal control
agencies and rescue groups recommend some form of pet identification, but it's hard to know what is the most
effective means of identifying your pet. Below are three possible options for you.

The basic ID tag- these metal or plastic tags hang from the collar and are engraved with the owner's information.
These are very cost effective, usually costing less than $10 each. And they can be the fastest and most effective
way of having your pet returned home. However, these tags do have a down side. If your pet is lost, he may
find himself in unusual situations, such as squeezing under fences or through brush. It is not uncommon for a dog
to be found without the collar and tag that his owner said he was wearing when he went missing. Collars can
come off...and tags can come off of collars. So while this may be the easiest method of pet ID to use and to
change if your information changes, it's not always the most reliable.

Tattoos- This method of pet ID involves actually making your owner information part of the pet by tattooing it
directly onto his skin. Normally, you would simply tattoo your phone number onto an area of your dog's skin
which is the least fur covered. This is a relatively good method of helping you find your dog, as long as he
eventually ends up in a vet's office, animal control shelter or rescue. But the average citizen may not think to look
for a tattoo. Another down side to this method is..what happens if your phone number changes? Certainly you
won't want several different phone numbers tattooed on your dog's skin. Besides the discomfort to your dog
resulting from several tattooings, you also create confusion for anybody who finds your dog. And finally, another
down side to this method is that tattooing is not particularly comfortable during and immediately after the
procedure. Many vets can do the tattoos or can refer you to someone who can, but tattooing is done on dogs
under anesthesia and then must heal afterwards.

Microchipping- This method of pet ID involves injecting a tiny microchip (about the size of a grain of rice)
underneath your dog's skin in the same manner used in giving a vaccine. The skin forms a small pocket around
the microchip to keep it in place. This chip emits a signal that can be read by special readers made to read these
chips. The reading reveals a registration number. The chips are registered with the company who makes them
and the registration numbers emitted by the chips are linked to your contact information so the company helps to
find you and reunite you and your pet. There are some down sides to these chips though. There are a few
companies that make them and they make them so that their readers are the only ones that can read their chips,
so a reader from one company cannot read chips from another company. The best vet's offices, animal shelters
and rescues have access to all the readers so that no matter what chip your dog may have implanted, they'll be
able to read it. And some companies are starting to come out with universal readers that will read all chips but
those are still few and far between. Reading the chip is done by scanning the dog's body with the reader to see if
there is any signal coming from a chip anywhere. This method will probably become the most reliable method of
pet ID, once the universal readers are out there and being used. But again, your pet must eventually end up in the
hands of a vet, animal control shelter or rescue because the average person does not have, not ever will have, a
reader. Readers are expensive and not practical for the average person, even the average pet owner, to
purchase. Also, these are much more practical for the changing of owner information, as you simply contact the
company and change your information if you move or change your phone number.
For more information on one brand of microchips, click the link below.
http://www.homeagainid.com/

All of these methods of pet ID have advantages and disadvantages. One may be a better choice for you than for
someone else. Small town pets can often do just fine with an ID tag, while larger city pets may do better with the
microchip. These methods can also be combined, if you feel the need to be safe about it. No matter which
method you choose, the bottom line is that you increase your chances of finding your lost pet if you use at least
one of these methods of pet ID.